Instal Steam
login
|
bahasa
简体中文 (Tionghoa Sederhana)
繁體中文 (Tionghoa Tradisional)
日本語 (Bahasa Jepang)
한국어 (Bahasa Korea)
ไทย (Bahasa Thai)
Български (Bahasa Bulgaria)
Čeština (Bahasa Ceko)
Dansk (Bahasa Denmark)
Deutsch (Bahasa Jerman)
English (Bahasa Inggris)
Español - España (Bahasa Spanyol - Spanyol)
Español - Latinoamérica (Bahasa Spanyol - Amerika Latin)
Ελληνικά (Bahasa Yunani)
Français (Bahasa Prancis)
Italiano (Bahasa Italia)
Magyar (Bahasa Hungaria)
Nederlands (Bahasa Belanda)
Norsk (Bahasa Norwegia)
Polski (Bahasa Polandia)
Português (Portugis - Portugal)
Português-Brasil (Bahasa Portugis-Brasil)
Română (Bahasa Rumania)
Русский (Bahasa Rusia)
Suomi (Bahasa Finlandia)
Svenska (Bahasa Swedia)
Türkçe (Bahasa Turki)
Tiếng Việt (Bahasa Vietnam)
Українська (Bahasa Ukraina)
Laporkan kesalahan penerjemahan
thanks, but I’m good. maybe I wasn’t clear, the Dolby drivers may not be signed, but the installers were, by Dolby Laboratories. these drivers are a few years old, probably from a time when signature wasn’t a requirement. I don’t know what kind of hardware they were written for, but they work for my RealTek flawlessly. I’m sticking with it. Driver signature enforcement has been reenabled and the drivers still work. thanks.
maybe you’re right. however with the Soundblaster card I think DTS and Dolby encoding was done via hardware. I can’t test cause I’ve already chucked it, but I remember encoding on didn’t affect CPU usage at all.
to be honest, how the surround sound is being generated is not much of an issue for me. as long as when I’m playing a game like Darksiders and I go through a door and the noise of the door slamming behind me comes from the rear speakers, or if it’s a game like GTA and some NPC walks past me and their voice comes from the corresponding speakers as they move, or playing a game like Tomb Raider and there’s an enemy off screen shooting from my 5 o’clock and I hear the shots coming from the right rear speaker (to name a few examples) that’s all I really care about. And I finally have that again.
If you did a bios update recently you’ll need to disable your onboard audio device via device manager and the BIOS. RealTek onboard audio can and does interfere with other audio devices.
Also, turning off NVIDIA’s and AMD’s audio options through their respective control panels will also help you.
I chucked the card cause you have no idea how stressful this whole thing has been for me. I don’t want to get into private details but gaming is something very, very important to me. I needed it to be as good as it used to be. In the place I am in my life at the moment I don’t know what would happen to me if I didn’t have it.
anyway, I tried everything with this card when the sound through SPDIF started breaking to a point it was driving me mad, I took it out, I opened it, I air blasted it, including inside the port as I figured dust could have been blocking the lights. I uninstalled software/drivers. man, I even reinstalled the whole Windows! I spent money on new cables, adapters, boosters. nothing worked! I was left with the choice of playing on my desk, or on my TV with either stereo sound and little lag or surround sound and a lot of lag.
as for the card’s software it was like this: you go in the SB panel, then on Cinematic, you enable Dolby Live. you play some music. it sounds fine. you run a game, sound starts breaking. you play a blu-ray, sound breaks again. you go back to the panel, change it to DTS Connect. and you see it doing even more often.
I know, throwing the card in the bin sounds like a childish thing but the moment I got those unofficial drivers working I found peace! but I knew I had to do something else and throwing that thing in the bin gave me a “you’ll never ♥♥♥♥ with me again, ♥♥♥♥♥!” kind of feeling.
and no, I didn’t do any BIOS update. that’s one of those things you do when things related to the motherboard aren’t working. system has always been super stable. just removed the soundblaster and re-enabled the onboard audio in the BIOS.