G27 'cuts out' while racing.

[JonathanGJM]

Hi all,
My Logitech G27 likes to cut out while I'm racing for some reason. It only does it while I'm racing and not when I'm leaving it alone. I hear the disconnect sound and immediatly after it reconnects and does its thing (calibrate). I already tried 3 different USB ports. One of them being USB 3.0, and it still does the same. This is really, really frustrating, especially since I'm either almost always chasing the lead by a few tenths or I'm in the lead.

Kind Regards,
JonathanGJM

[Bad 💀 Motha]

Go to the device's properties in Device Manager (basically every single HID device; and maybe check the USB Chipsets/Hubs as well) and ensure any power saving option is disabled. Then reboot the PC when done.

What are all other USB devices you have plugged in at the same time?
What OS are you using?
Also make sure Steam > Big Picture Mode > Controller settings is not set to ever turn off the device.

[Cathulhu]

Loose/Broken cable? Had the same with a mouse, it had a broken cable.

[Wampum Biskit]

check your cables right when the cable enters the strain relieve , thats where they usually break if they do break , plug it in and wiggle it to see if it disconnects/reconnects

[JonathanGJM]

The cable can't be it, all of the cables haven't been moved a centimeter in the last couple of months. My other devices include a Joystick to USB encoder, my Razer Blackwidow keyboard, my Sharkoon Sharkforce mouse*, a Behringer C1-U Microphone* and my Razer Kraken 7.1 Pro*

*= not directly plugged into motherboard

My specs are:
Intel Core I7 3770 @ 3.4 GHz
12GB RAM
Windows 10 Home Edition 64 bit.
My logitech driver is version 5.10 since I can't get the new software to work with my G27. This driver has worked for me for a long time. The driver is also installed on a Toshiba 128GB SSD.

I will check the power cable, and I've turned off the power saving option, which was on before.
Thanks for the help and I will tell if this worked!

[Bad 💀 Motha]

Yes try having no Steam or Game actively running; but open up Device Manager alone

Wiggle the cable at various points and see if that alone makes the device connect/disconnect.

Most device cables are not high strength design or high end shielding; thus not that hard to crimp to some extent; and all it takes is maybe a hard crimp of a single wire to make this kind of annoying issue present itself.


EDIT:

There's your problem; always only ever connect the controller you wish to use.
As only one of this can be "Player #1" within JOY.CPL (the default device)
Many Games may simply not see, or throw a fit if others are connected at the same time.

USB groupings or Ports all act as "Hubs" too; try to make each device use its own Hub...
Example of USB Hubs
[X] [_] < This is considered a Hub, the X represents a connected device, with the port above it free of any device. This is an example of Motherboard Rear USB Ports.

Keyboard & Mouse are usually just fine on the same Hub; however some USB devices such as Mic or Headset might use more power then a simple 0.5 Amps and thus may be best when on a dedicated set of USB (aka Hub of its own); Steering Wheel + Pedals = 2x Devices (if Shifter, 3 devices)

You can view each USB Hub and what is connected to it within Device Manager > USB Host Controller and also USB Hub; within their Properties details...

[JonathanGJM]

I still have this issue, I indeed do have a shifter included. I've tried wiggling the cable to no avail.
The sims I use allow multiple controllers to be used at once, although the device plugged into the USB to joystick encoder is not used in Assetto Corsa. (I discovered the problem in Assetto Corsa and haven't tried other sims since) I've had the usb to joystick encoder for a week now and I haven't had any problems (with it interfering) with my wheel until yesterday. The wheel only disconnects after (an) hour(s) of moderate use, with breaks in between sessions. Could it be an overheating issue, since the G27 doesn't have a fan inside to cool off the 2 force feedback motors?

[CarDr]

“it reconnects and does its this (calibrate)”

Are you talking about the self- calibration the wheel does when it is first powered up?

If yes, it sounds like a wheel power supply feed problem, loose connector, bad power cable or internal wheel problem. If the wheel loses power for any reason, you will hear the USB disconnect sound from windows. Try wiggling / shaking the power cable at the wheel to duplicate the fault.

[JonathanGJM]

its thing* Yes that's my thought aswell, thanks for the help!

[CarDr]

You might want to check out the hardware section in the forums on the web site GT Planet. net. . I’m not sure what you could find for the G27, but there was some good threads for Fanatec repairs and mods.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/board/sim-racing-hardware.163/

edit; repaired link

[JonathanGJM]

Thanks man, appreciate it.

[JonathanGJM]

Okay this is really weird, It doesn't cut out when playing Euro Truck Simulator 2 or City Car Driving (regular driving) but it does on Assetto Corsa (racing) I've tried reinstalling Assetto Corsa but that didn't help. This now happens after one lap at Monza, which isn't a very long track. This really is starting to piss me off. It cant be an overheating issue; the base isn't even warm to the touch now. It has been very warm to the touch before with no problems at all.

[JonathanGJM]

I just checked and it also does this with project cars. I plugged my power supply for the wheel directly into a wall plug. That kind of did something I think. I can now race longer than yesterday without it cutting out, but I don't know if that's because of the power supply.