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#SWE
I guess Red matches my all-AMD system tho
https://youtu.be/l22xoffNO9M?t=144
Just watch from that position
ADATA seems to have some too
https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory-AX4U3000W4G16-DGZ/dp/B00U6SE7ZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492433327&sr=1-1&keywords=adata+ddr4+3000
I don't know if the VRM matter for non-extreme overclocking of 1600-1700x.
I don't know if VRM matter for future possibility of having 4x8 GB of RAM or if that will never be a thing with 3200 MHz :/
I don't know if the ASUS X370 Prime Pro or whatever it's called or the cheaper Gigabyte X370 boards is the better "middle-ground" cards.
I don't know what to get :/
Don't really know 1600X, 1700 or 1700X either. Guess 1700X.
I can read the motherboard specs just fine (they seem good), but I dont know just how functional Gigabyte's latest BIOS is. I know they had the worst problems at launch, but I can't find too much info on how they are right now.
Also why a 1700X? Just get a 1700 and OC it or go straight for an 1800X.
I seriously hope I'm not missing a joke here. Internet sarcasm is hard to read
These days flashier board = higher quality actually might be true.
At least that's what Asus/Gigabyte is telling us.
+ fastest boottime from all boards, ~30s (Asua CH VI Hero: +45s)
+ 2x LAN
+ 2 Audio Realtek ALC 1220 (for front & back audio, 2 different audio streams possible)
+ additional ASmedia chip for 2+2 USB3.1
+ 6x temp sensor internal, 2x temp sensor external (included)
+ voltage measuring points on board
+ Dual-BIOS
according to the ct tests it was possible to run DDR4-3200 from Geil on all tested borads with 1,4V (instead of 1,2V)
XMP-Profiles doesn't work great on all boards, but on ASUS it was the most stable method. But XMP is an INTEL feature anyways, so i would adjust the RAM speed and timings manually.
I've got the impression the stuff overclock about the same and that people do so even on B350 boards but there's also discussion going on about VRM/PWM (the Phases part you'll see on some motherboard pages, possibly together with an ampere number and whateverK for capacitors and stuff like NexFet or DigiVRM and such.)
I don't know if it only matter in case the processors could overclock more than they can anyway or if it matter as is and if so if that's only true for those willing to say try 1.45 volt rather than say stick to 1.375 volt at max to not risk too much.
1700X sell for a price close to the 1700 but one still lose the cooler. That's mostly why.
Also I could run it stock and get close to the same performance / run it stock when I don't play games and OC to 3.9-4.0 GHz before launching a game where I'd care about the performance. I have a Noctua NH-U12P cooler which is better than the included cooler anyway but the included cooler looks nice and isn't terrible and .. for some reason I would still prefer to have it :D
With the 1600X it's basically that it clock like the 1800X and likely do well in games and there's little need to OC it at all / it will do the least there.
If a good OC require a more costly board and the stock would run on a cheap B350 board then ..
Some of the motherboards have 2 phase VRM for the memory and some others have 1 phase, it seem like 2 phase can handle like ~40 watt (at high temperature?) and memory sticks doesn't use much power. However I kinda could possibly want to have 32 GB eventually and since Ryzen is picky with memory for now at-least and do worse with more memory sticks and dual-rank I don't know if that could affect the possibility of using 32 GB 3200 MHz or not. One guy already run that on Taichi and Crosshair VI but at-least on one board he run it at BCLK 120 MHz (100 MHz is stock) and once you hit 109 or whatever it is you have to drop down from PCI-express 3.0 to 2.0 and then later to 1.0 .. You do overclock the PCI-express bus too I think so that kinda compensate for it but not enough (and whatever the graphics cards like it I don't know. I would prefer to run BCLK 100 and just multiply overclock and have everything function as it should.)
I'm not all that knowledgable in all this but I guess more than you are since you understood what I was talking about, but my problem is that I'm not knowledgable enough to know whatever I need to care or not :D
Gigabyte Auros is doing fine there.
I kinda like the stealth black of the MSI Pro Carbon boards though. Also the diod count there is more like "flight-strip" than "Tokyo" .. ;D, supposedly the VRM on their Titanium board isn't all that fancy though so it doesn't seem like one really get the best there for the money. They have posted support for the faster memory modules since long though so maybe they are good with BIOS updates at-least?
Also everything equal I'd take the motherboard with ALC 1220 over 897 or whatever. Gigabyte use them and the Asus Prime one have it too (without being expensive.)
ASUS don't seem to list that much support for fast RAM but .. People are obviously using it anyway.It likely is but they cost more and I would had prefered to pay as little as possible and if I could save $100-150 by dropping the RGB but not losing anything else then I'd go for that.
For $50 I maybe would still drop the RGB too.
It's just that the better boards may actually BE BETTER too .. ;D
The RGB scenario seem to be ♥♥♥♥ anyway with one system for the motherboard, another for the graphics card, a third for the memory, a fourth for your water AIO, ... If you got RGB everything .. Case too? :D
Also I feel a glowing case would distract from games with reflections and colors and ♥♥♥♥.
Maybe it's ok for listening to music, like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9wdLRhPGKU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DckvJeZZtYw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBzQNYTrk7Y
I do have some tacky "Thai Karaoke" system in mind but I don't know how to find it .. But yeah, for strobing with the music :)
I can't but imagine using good quality capacitors for the audio still cost close to nothing. I totally won't give extra credit for Killer NIC, if there is one + Intel then I won't remove points .. Armored PCI-express slots I don't think I need at all, preferably I'd get a Micro-ATX board but can't find any X370 ones or mini-ITX so .. But good luck with stuff like the ASRock 16 phase VRM on a mini-ITX board .. ;D
Biostar GT7 is supposed to have pretty good VRM, speaking of manufacturers. GT5 is cheaper but have simpler so .. I don't really like the look of those boards though, the RGB part look tacky / cheap / is ugly designed for me and I don't really want a race theme on it. I don't play racing games.VRM is supposed to be ok on that one too. Maybe that and the Prime one are decent middle-ground boards?
I totally have nothing against supporting Gigabyte, especially since it's not a special Creative or Killer board. I guess I don't mind Creative software on top of ALC 1220. I just would want to have the best chance for it to run Linux and OS X (Intel boards likely safer) too if I would want that.
Stereo-LOL:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRNomB0v0qA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YWM6mGnuHU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikcoiALcucg
^ Yup; otherwise you won't even see the RAM unless you sit around looking inside your PC with a flashlight.