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回報翻譯問題
Do not turn cool & quiet on, that's the last thing you want as overclocking. XMP profile is for OC RAM not CPU. Disable all power saving features and maybe adjusting case fan curve.
All of my power saving options are disabled in the BIOS. My mobo options for fancurve are also kinda weird. It's UEFI, but it has normal, disabled, and serveral different intervals numbers (.75, 1.00 1.25, etc). And for some reason I can only adjust my vcore in increments of 0.020 up and down.
I just checked and my cpu is at about 1.25v on the vcore. Is there anything else that might cause this boot problem? EDIT: I just changed the BLCK, NB, and HT Link frenquency to auto, but this did not help.
Edited
You should really only need to disable c1e, cool n quiet and turbo core, bump up your vcore then start jacking up the multi.
Overclocking is the luck of the draw too, nothing's guaranteed.
Ps,
""So the problem with this is that when I startup all of my fans will come on and it seems like my PC is gonna turn on, but then all of the fans turn off. A few seconds later my PC will turn on again and startup as normal""
I get ya now ^ , ya that's a freaky Gigabyte thing the same thing happens on my FX8350 / 990FXA-UD3 it's just the way they are.
Well dang, so there's no fix for that, huh?
+1 some motherboards will do this ive got an older asus that does the same thing with or without oc
also that particular motherboard is a budget gigabyte.. while still good its 4+1 phase so 4.2ghz on the fx 6300 will put you at 125-140w so i wouldnt go any higher on that board
Ok, lesson of the day: DON'T CHEAP OUT ON THE MOTHERBOARD WHEN BUILDING A PC. When I built this PC I didn't know much about computers. Next time I'll do a little more research for my motherboard, but for now I'll just have to deal with the startup issue since there's no problems once I startup and I have no way of fixing it and keeping my OC.
Also I disagree with people who advocate a manual vcore. Keep voltage adaptive and use the voltage offset. That way you're not drawing max power at idle. That just creates heat and wears our your gear and uses more electricity.
That heatsink can handle OC just fine, unless it's past 4.5Ghz+ on the FX. It in fact can keep up with low end AIO like Corsair H55.
Water cooled is going to offer better GPU temps for GPUs with fans on the bottom if you've got a front mounted radiator.
Those big heat sinks like the 212 restrict air flow a lot in the case.
I point my 212X upward with 2 140mm exhaust, and I slap an extra NF-F12 2000rpm for push/pull configuration on the 212X. My G1 GTX 1080 can't be happier, 65C maxed at 2100Mhz Core 10500Mhz Memory at 25C room temp. Before it was at 72C.
Radiator mount on the front will blow hot air into the case, only the CPU gets cool air. You then need to put bottom intake to help the GPU.
Seen countless videos and tests where they compare front mount radiator and top mount. Bitwit did one on his YouTube. GPU temps went down 10c based on front mount radiator for cards with fans on bottom.
I can confirm this happened as well when I went from air cooled to water cooled. My GPU temps went down without changing anything.
With the slightly better than H55 the H60 ^, the 212evo still shows well.
Lower end closed loops aren't always better.
You want the H100 or H110. 240mm or 280 radiator with the two fans.
Evo 212 is extremely loud as well.