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Allow me to summarise my experience/actions, so hopefully when someone has the same issue, they can feel just a bit less clueless haha.
1. I initially moved 44 games (some big some small) from my internal SSD to the Samsung T7 using the Steam built-in function (which means you know adding Steam library in the proper way, selected all the games I wanted to move, clicked the “Move” button etc.). I didn’t manually copy the folders over in Windows Explorer.
2. About half of the games wouldn’t boot up, like I described in the post. The other half had no problem. Trying to verify integrity of game files would result in the “Corrupt update files” error.
3. I used the provided USB-C cable, and the USB 3.2 gen 2 port on my laptop.
4. I tried using a few different USB-C and USB-C-to-A cables, as well as different ports on my laptop like USB-C, A, Thunderbolt 4. Didn’t make a difference. So it’s not the cable/port’s problem.
5. I tried unplugging everything else on my laptop because I thought it might be all the peripherals and extension hub consuming too much bandwidth. Didn’t make a difference.
6. I tried whitelisting the Steam installation folder and all the library folders in Windows Defender, even disabling it completely. Didn’t make a difference. So it’s not Windows Defender’s problem.
7. I tried setting power mode of my laptop to Performance, instead of the default Balance. Didn’t make a difference. So it’s not power mode’s problem.
8. I tried formatting the T7 from exFAT to NTFS. Didn’t make a difference. So it’s not drive format’s problem.
9. I ran a short scan and a full scan using Samsung Magician to check disk health. Both times 100%, no bad sector found. So it’s not the SSD health’s problem. I’ve only used it for 2 weeks and I’ve had no problem with it before.
10. Finally, I decided to find my old Sandisk Portable 2TB SSD and give it a go, and it worked flawlessly…… Moving games, installing games, running games, no problem at all.
11. So I though, hmmm maybe it’s something wrong with this particular model of SSD. So I bought another Samsung T7, because I needed another SSD anyway, thinking if it doesn’t work I’ll just return it. And guess what, It also worked flawlessly.
So… this really is just a mystery to me now. Maybe someone with a very good understanding of how SSD drivers work will be able to explain what happened. I doubt this is Steam’s problem, maybe Samsung support could give me an answer, but I just can’t be bothered to call them about this anymore. Is there a way to report this to their technical support? I’m happy to write an email.
I did get a second drive but they're very likely to be from the same batch since I bought them at the same time. Anyway, I'll try that tomorrow and probably just try straight up installing games rather than moving stuff over to see if that makes any difference (have you tried doing that?).
If I had a new system I'd also suspect the RAM but this is a years old PC with no other issues so it's very unlikely the RAM has gone bad, but it's always a possibility (tends to ruin file extraction, copying, patching etc).
Changed port and cable to known good ones (other working drives) and now this new T7 seems to be working properly - reformated it, same 20gb passed parity check, am able to install into a fresh Steam library okay, etc.
So it seems like either bad port or cable. (just in case this is useful to anyone later, the cable was the supplied USB 3 C->B, into a blue USB 3 port, Asus mobo). As I said I vaguely remember someone in a review saying the cables matter a lot for these drives to work reliably. Port was a little dusty before I used it, but I don't know if that affects devices if they're plugged in and running.
Kind of annoying as I was about to get it replaced, but now have to keep using it to see if it bricks again... good thing covid means all the return times were extended.
edit: and yes the logical step would be to plug a known good drive into that other port to see if it also starts having issues, but eh... kind of not willing to risk that.
edit: forgot to mention that if you want to repeatedly test the same files, you will need to clear QuickPar's own results cache, which is in C:\Users\[username]\AppData\Local\QuickPar\
[Making parity check and recovery files is good thing to do for any important data you store on externals anyway. Keep the parity files on a different drive, test every year or so, repair them if necessary. Most likely unless you have a ton of data (dozens of TBs at least) you'll never see any errors but minor 'data rot' over time is theoretically possible, even on good drives.]
But RMA casses / warranty such still can be asked there.
edit 2 (to save from bumping, information for anyone searching up this thread): returned that drive, trying the other one I purchased at the same time, so far so good, passes all the tests and Steam install process okay. Still give it a few weeks to properly test it but I guess I just received a bad drive (has to happen occasionally).
It's one of those softwares that still does the job even though it hasn't changed in years. And yes if you produce recovery files, you can repair upto a % of damaged files depending on how many recovery files you make. So typically after archiving a folder with Winrar or 7Zip or whatever, then make 10-15% recovery and that's good enough for any minor data errors that might rarely happen. (though in this case with drives not managing to copy files properly, probably there would be too much 'damage' to repair - also in the case of a failing drive, don't repair them in place, copy the damaged files off first).