Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
That said, eyeballing the ingot temperature isn't too hard once you get used to it. For reference, each tick of heat is +10 temperature, and each use of the bellows is also +10. Once the ingot reaches forging range, you can simply count the ticks/bellows usage to know when you have a high but safe temperature.
P.S. I assume the bellows still have the bug where its use doesn't add to an ingot's glow intensity once it does start glowing, so if you do plan to regularly use the bellows non-stop, just be aware that you should pull the ingot out at around half its usual maximum forging range glow (if you're relying purely on visuals, which is fine too) if you want to prevent overheating.
I don't get a glow on Tungsten and I've not tried with mithril. I didn't get much of a glow on Titan either. Only Bronze, copper, and Iron glowed for me.
I'll try using coke, but it doesn't change the point of not having a decent thermometer.
You need to use coke for anything that has a forging range higher than 1700. I forgot to mention that you also need to upgrade the main furnace to reach higher temperatures.
You ultimately won't need one with a bit of practice, for reasons in my first reply. Think of the thermometers as training wheels for helping you figure out how the temperature works.
If you hammer any "Done" section on the sword twice more, it blackens and turns to "Bad", which will hurt the forge quality stat (and the more you hit that section afterwards, the bigger the penalty will get). It also hurts quality if you leave sections undone.
Did you perhaps mean the heat quality stat? That one should comparatively be a lot less obvious when you're learning, especially with the bellows bug I mentioned at the end of my first reply. If you heat an ingot beyond its maximum listed forging range, the ingot becomes redder and misshapen, which applies an overheated penalty. And reaching the listed melting temperature applies the most severe overheat penalty, "melted". Though maybe the misshapen part only happens at melted, been a while so I can't remember...
But basically, don't let your ingots get hotter than their max "forging temperature", and especially don't let it reach "melting".
Aside from relying on just the glow, it's worth noting that all ingots only start glowing as soon as they reach their minimum forging temperature, and you can also visually see each tick of heat when it starts glowing. So if you count those, you'll actually know the exact temperature even without a thermometer (reminder to watch out for the bellows bug though). Knowing the limits can help you better gauge how close to max safe forging temperature an ingot is via just the glow, which is useful in case you ever need to step away for a moment.