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You can attach to hooks basically anywhere on the engine, but the best way to do it is to fit one to each corner of the valve cover. That way it should be fairly well balanced when you try to lift the engine.
Once the hooks are attached (basically, grab and drag, and then they'll snap/stay in position) You'll need to 'grab' the engine block to free it.
You will need to remove the transmission (you can leave the clutch in place), and also the two nuts (one each side) that hold the engine mounts to the subframe, the top and bottom radiator hoses, the V band clamp that holds the exhaust downpipe(s) to the flexi pipe (the angled pipe before the silencer), and also the intercooler pipes for tubo'd cars or the angled silicone tube that holds the air filter tube on for N/A cars.
(It isn't compulsory to remove the N/A air filter/tube, but taking off the clamp to the silicone tube/throttle body and removing the whole lot in one go from the silicone tube down makes life a lot easier.)
As far as I can remember, this should be all you need to do to get the engine to come free.
Just don't forget to 'grab' the engine block to free it before trying to lift it.
If the cables freak out then something, somewhere is still preventing it from coming free, so have a quick look around and makes sure any of the relevant points noted above have been covered.
Other than that, from memory, you should be good to go.
There's only two guys working on this whole project so they kinda have to shuffle things around and prioritise their workload.
Still, glad you got the crane figured in the end.