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If you're unable to tell, when it's the right moment to pit, then just stay to whatever is told to you here (not doing the program will btw just tell you some of the standard-AI-strategies, which might not be optimal for you). And also don't ignore Jeff for more than once. He normally spams you with new pitting ideas, if you're unable to keep your tyres on the expected minimum pace, making it a viable option to pit earlier or to even change the compound for the next pit. He's also very good on timing intermediate/wet tyres, so don't ignore these commend (but keep in mind, that the team might keep you out 1 additional round, if you're behind your partner. You can still pit at this round if you're like 10-15 seconds behind your teammate if you feel unconfortable with using your tyres any longer)
In terms of all the technical questions asked such as tyres, strategy, pit windows etc, i'm not sure on any of these things, my routine is to do the practice programmes, qualify, and race, within this i just pit when jeff tells me to, i dont have any idea about strategy and tyre options etc, I barely do all of the practice programmes because i'm not aware of what they do despite listenign to the tutorial.
The 3 Management programs will show you, where you're wasting Tyres/Fuel/ERS. The Tyre Management in particular is very helpful, as it shows you, where you might have not enough grip while braking or accelerating. The other 2 doesn't really help to get better on the track in my opinion, as they might need some strange tactics for being beatable on perfect consumption rates (especially the fuel management, which can be tricked by just rolling into the finish line, if you've plenty of time left, which however isn't recommended for a race obviously^^)
The Qualifying Pace can help you to getting used to high fuel and ERS consumptions and can also tell you, how good you might place in the Grid. This can also help you to see, if you might need to change the difficulty
And the race strategy is mainly there to get you a race strategy worked out as explained above
I would recommend to at least get 2-3 practice programs done, mainly the acclimatisation, race strategy and the qualifying program, as they're the easiest to complete, while giving you the best preparation for the race without expecting you to change your driving style.
And just ignore the team objectives. If you're not able to get them while doing the race programs, then it's just a waste of engine part durabilites to get them done.
And as a tip: Don't just change your engine parts to the most worn parts for the training. This might look like a good idea at first glance, but it will make the training programs way harder, as the times they expect you to reach are based on the cars possible performance without any damage.
The combustion engine will determine how much power you're able to use. Don't rev up your engine too much all the time, as it will damage your engine faster
The kinetic MGU is there to load your ERS while braking. using high ERS modes will damage it faster, so don't use these too exessive (especially because you've only 2 units available per season without receiving penalties)
The heat MGU helps you to load your ERS passively. Heating up your engine too much (by reving up the engine too much and using high fuel modes for to long) damages it faster.
The energy store determines the amount of Energy it can store. You won't be able to fill it to 100% if it starts to degrade. Having your ERS on the maximum amount will wear it faster.
The Turbo charger determines your available power like the combustion engine, but it will just wear over time, so no need to adapt your driving style to it
the Electronics determine, how fast all other parts degrade, so just always change it to the best part at the beginning of each race weekend. It degrades faster if you're driving over curbs or uneven ground.
All these parts will start to turn yellow at some point, in which it will have some negative effects on your parts. If they get into orange or even red, then you'll occur some problems within the race like being unable to use specific fuel modes. So change it if they get worn at some point and try to buy new parts, if you expect to qualify on the back of the grid, as the penalties won't be that hard on you (in that case just get a fully new engine.
and the gearbox will degrade over time. You can change your training gear box as often as you want, so just change it when it starts to get yellow. The main gearbox needs to be used in at least 6 races, so just change it after that point is reached. A worn gearbox will cause problems like being unable to switch into some of the gears or even switching at all. So keep an eye on it's wear to minimize such devastating problems.
And no matter what you're doing: Don't let any part getting near 100% wear as it might can lead to a DNF due to technical problems if you can even manage to handle all the other problems.