Car setups

[SlimDown57]

Car setups are way too complicated!

[goblueteam]

well this is supposed to be a simulation. So its really not supposed to be too easy and that is why it feels good when you start doing well...

good easier to drive cars are the aston martin V8 and bmw m4

it takes most people probably 20-100 hours just to start getting around the track at a ok pace so idk your probably doing as well as anyone for your time in the game lol

also if you want to try a free setup you can try frid0lf on youtube sky194 on youtube also jardier on youtube has a website with some free setups as well im sure there are others offering free setups too.

most important things are having your tire psi between 26.3-27 psi after 2-3 laps of driving so go drive 3-4 laps look at your tire psi then go back to the pits and add .1 to each tire until its the right psi so if you were at 25.5 after 4 laps you would add 10-12 clicks up on each tire...

anyways its very complex lol.. and is made to simulate actual racing in real life..... obviously nothing is perfect but its a good option for sim racing.

[jellobiafra]

As a beginner you don´t necessarily have to deal with setups.
Choose the Ferrari 296 with the (standard) safe setup and change the tyre pressure as described. That's it.

[goblueteam]

well i was going to say the same thing but the 296 is DLC and if someone is already questioning the game they probably are not buying DLC or i assumed it was unlikely maybe i am wrong but yes the 296 is probably the best/most stable car to start with but it only comes with the DLC lol.

[jellobiafra]

https://steamcommunity.com/app/805550/discussions/0/3800526395810687517/?ctp=5#c3800527434459989578

Here is an example for a quick setup change for the Lambo.

Mainly, make it softer at the front and give it more suspension travel, this should help it to turn in better.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by couturemk57:

Car setups are way too complicated they should be setup by the level you chose like Beginner through Expert. With beginner with all the bells and Whistle's for easy drive. Obviously this game is not for me.

Drive default, I drive default safe and it delivers.
Try the Ferraris

[natef1205]

Originally posted by couturemk57:

Car setups are way too complicated they should be setup by the level you chose like Beginner through Expert. With beginner with all the bells and Whistle's for easy drive. Obviously this game is not for me.

Just get a subscription to Coach Dave Setups.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by natef1205:

Just get a subscription to Coach Dave Setups.

Just set min camber and toe at tyres pressure,low TC1 and ABS, like ranging from 1 to 3, TC2 zero on cars that have TC2 and you have half the CDA setup without paying for anything
Yes, there would be something like what Jardier show here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phFpaP3ds9s

TC2, according to Kunos, is only "how much TC will activate" so TC2 OFF should mean "no TC" no matter what TC1 setting you use but it delivers high TC2 handling without causing any engine power loss through the turn, absolutely not how TC2 should work "acccording to Kunos explanation" and CDA explanattion.
3:59 at video
https://youtu.be/CCem1cyKw-M?feature=shared&t=239
https://coachdaveacademy.com/tutorials/the-ultimate-acc-car-setup-guide/#:~:text=TC2%20controls%20the%20level%20to,once%20TC%201%20has%20engaged.
So TC2 = OFF should mean "zero TC activation" and equal to TC OFF (now try driving any car with TC1 with TC OFF and check if it is the same thing) but that absolutely is not how it is at ACC.

Meanwhile, even more for learning and getting at least on a "decent lap time range" of 4% or lower (very reachable even to the average joe) defaults, safe and aggressive, can deliver up to 2% off the best times or lower if you set engine map 1 (less at Porsche, leave it at 8), maybe lower brake bias a lot depending on car AND ABOVE ALL do 5 laps and adjust tyres pressure to have psi hot to 26.5psi, but I am talking about average joe (and I consider myself an average joe despite having tracks I can reach within "under 2% to 2.5%" off of the best possible times "during races") and within 4% or faster you are good enough to even win lots of races online or get within top 10 or top 5 if you survive T1 and first 2 laps.

FACT: CDA/Jardier setups will deliver:
IF ALIEN: 0.3s to 0.7s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF FAST DRIVER: 0.7s to 2s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF AVERAGE JOE: 1s to 2s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF SLOW DRIVER: -2S slower to 4s faster depending on car/track and how fast you drive
Still these setups will not exactly make you magically super fast but will allow bad driving (that should make you go slower) to be accepted and even allowing to be faster, but a slow driver will not know how to deal with it and may have inconsistency enough to even lose 2s on these things (from what I asked online and what setups people were using).
The less "safe" a setup is the worst it tends to be for a slow driver as the slow driver barely can stay within track limits so stick to somehting safe (both aggressive and safe setups at ACC are on the safe side) and learn with the car.

I would say these setups hinder learning and makes player addicted to it exactly because it allows "at least" poor driving to be accepted where any normal setup without these setup changes or the defauls dont and will teach you better how to drive.
These setups (defaults or self made setups) will not allow you to get away or be fast with poor driving and that is exacly why I would never recommend any of these to someone learning (unless it is someone experienced and fast enough and that is there for the competition, as "the competition" would be using at least part of the changes Jardier explained most of the time).

Yes yes, I know people will say "it may be Kunos not telling the whole story about the values at setup" (like TC2 and tyres adjustments . . . and all else too) yada yada and "you are not even that fast yoursellf neither understand setups to have a say" yada yada too but ... as Jardier mentions at his video, "dont ask why" (just do it if you are in for the competitive scenario or want that extra advantage over others).

[shadow82]

Originally posted by EF_Neo1st:

TC2, according to Kunos, is only "how much TC will activate" so TC2 OFF should mean "no TC" no matter what TC1 setting you use but it delivers high TC2 handling without causing any engine power loss through the turn, absolutely not how TC2 should work "acccording to Kunos explanation" and CDA explanattion.

No one ever said or confirmed TC2:0 means OFF, that's only what people wish to extrapolate to boost their ego and convince themselves they are able to drive with "TC OFF". TC2:0 means you do not touch that setting from factory default relative to TC1. In otherwords if you put TC2 at 0 on the 720 EVO, changing TC1 would then just be the same as doing that on the regular 720 which did not offer a TC2 settings, it just means than the values are pre-defined according to TC1 in that case.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by shadow82:

Originally posted by EF_Neo1st:

TC2, according to Kunos, is only "how much TC will activate" so TC2 OFF should mean "no TC" no matter what TC1 setting you use but it delivers high TC2 handling without causing any engine power loss through the turn, absolutely not how TC2 should work "acccording to Kunos explanation" and CDA explanattion.

No one ever said or confirmed TC2:0 means OFF, that's only what people wish to extrapolate to boost their ego and convince themselves they are able to drive with "TC OFF". TC2:0 means you do not touch that setting from factory default relative to TC1. In otherwords if you put TC2 at 0 on the 720 EVO, changing TC1 would then just be the same as doing that on the regular 720 which did not offer a TC2 settings, it just means than the values are pre-defined according to TC1 in that case.

It shows as OFF in replay and while racing if you watch the player, go to replay, set hud then get back, you will watch the player in re time showing inputs, TC2 vanishes if you watch in real time like that like TC2 never existed in the car.

"If" that is the case it would be the same as setting TC2 value equal to TC1 value, making no sense to set it to OFF.
Also I driven with it OFF and TC1 low, car still respond as with high TC setting in terms of stability but without cutting engine power so ... It is at leaat "fishy" how TC2 OFF work

[shadow82]

Originally posted by EF_Neo1st:

"If" that is the case it would be the same as setting TC2 value equal to TC1 value, making no sense to set it to OFF.

You are again assuming that if it is OFF it then matches TC1 values, nowhere as it been said, neither by me nor by any of the sources you cited. OFF just means factory default relative to TC1 for that specific car, relative does not necessarily mean equal. We have no way to tell what that relative value is, unless you somehow reverse engineer the game's code. Even using tools like motec would just give you a best guess highly biaised by the rest of the setup, the driver and the track conditions.

Setting it to 0 for those setups is to just ignore any impact of that specific parameter and fiddle around elsewhere. This has been seen time and time again with full negative toe, with dampers to minimum value, "max wing/min diff"... You just remove parameters to deal with and figure out how to make it work elsewhere.

Does that mean the game is broken for that parameter ? Sometime it can, but in reality it is just a mean to take a shortcut in the setup process and re-inforce that feeling by using echo chambers effect (if streamers are doing it, it must be true).

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by shadow82:

Originally posted by EF_Neo1st:

"If" that is the case it would be the same as setting TC2 value equal to TC1 value, making no sense to set it to OFF.

You are again assuming that if it is OFF it then matches TC1 values, nowhere as it been said, neither by me nor by any of the sources you cited. OFF just means factory default relative to TC1 for that specific car, relative does not necessarily mean equal. We have no way to tell what that relative value is, unless you somehow reverse engineer the game's code. Even using tools like motec would just give you a best guess highly biaised by the rest of the setup, the driver and the track conditions.

Setting it to 0 for those setups is to just ignore any impact of that specific parameter and fiddle around elsewhere. This has been seen time and time again with full negative toe, with dampers to minimum value, "max wing/min diff"... You just remove parameters to deal with and figure out how to make it work elsewhere.

Does that mean the game is broken for that parameter ? Sometime it can, but in reality it is just a mean to take a shortcut in the setup process and re-inforce that feeling by using echo chambers effect (if streamers are doing it, it must be true).

It vanishes when watching in real time and at replay it shows as OFF, what was I supposed to assume?

[jellobiafra]

Using TC2 0 or other glitches has nothing to do with creating a proper setup for the car.
I tried it on a Porsche with a nervous rear end and TC2 0 works like a stability control that you set in the driving aids. The rear stays on rails and does everything you want without any problems.
When you use something like this you don't even know what other setup changes do because it affects everything else.
Anyone who pays money for such "super setups" has been taken for a ride.

[Gulivert]

Originally posted by EF_Neo1st:

Originally posted by natef1205:

Just get a subscription to Coach Dave Setups.

Just set min camber and toe at tyres pressure,low TC1 and ABS, like ranging from 1 to 3, TC2 zero on cars that have TC2 and you have half the CDA setup without paying for anything
Yes, there would be something like what Jardier show here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phFpaP3ds9s

TC2, according to Kunos, is only "how much TC will activate" so TC2 OFF should mean "no TC" no matter what TC1 setting you use but it delivers high TC2 handling without causing any engine power loss through the turn, absolutely not how TC2 should work "acccording to Kunos explanation" and CDA explanattion.
3:59 at video
https://youtu.be/CCem1cyKw-M?feature=shared&t=239
https://coachdaveacademy.com/tutorials/the-ultimate-acc-car-setup-guide/#:~:text=TC2%20controls%20the%20level%20to,once%20TC%201%20has%20engaged.
So TC2 = OFF should mean "zero TC activation" and equal to TC OFF (now try driving any car with TC1 with TC OFF and check if it is the same thing) but that absolutely is not how it is at ACC.

Meanwhile, even more for learning and getting at least on a "decent lap time range" of 4% or lower (very reachable even to the average joe) defaults, safe and aggressive, can deliver up to 2% off the best times or lower if you set engine map 1 (less at Porsche, leave it at 8), maybe lower brake bias a lot depending on car AND ABOVE ALL do 5 laps and adjust tyres pressure to have psi hot to 26.5psi, but I am talking about average joe (and I consider myself an average joe despite having tracks I can reach within "under 2% to 2.5%" off of the best possible times "during races") and within 4% or faster you are good enough to even win lots of races online or get within top 10 or top 5 if you survive T1 and first 2 laps.

FACT: CDA/Jardier setups will deliver:
IF ALIEN: 0.3s to 0.7s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF FAST DRIVER: 0.7s to 2s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF AVERAGE JOE: 1s to 2s depending on car/track and how fast you drive
IF SLOW DRIVER: -2S slower to 4s faster depending on car/track and how fast you drive
Still these setups will not exactly make you magically super fast but will allow bad driving (that should make you go slower) to be accepted and even allowing to be faster, but a slow driver will not know how to deal with it and may have inconsistency enough to even lose 2s on these things (from what I asked online and what setups people were using).
The less "safe" a setup is the worst it tends to be for a slow driver as the slow driver barely can stay within track limits so stick to somehting safe (both aggressive and safe setups at ACC are on the safe side) and learn with the car.

I would say these setups hinder learning and makes player addicted to it exactly because it allows "at least" poor driving to be accepted where any normal setup without these setup changes or the defauls dont and will teach you better how to drive.
These setups (defaults or self made setups) will not allow you to get away or be fast with poor driving and that is exacly why I would never recommend any of these to someone learning (unless it is someone experienced and fast enough and that is there for the competition, as "the competition" would be using at least part of the changes Jardier explained most of the time).

Yes yes, I know people will say "it may be Kunos not telling the whole story about the values at setup" (like TC2 and tyres adjustments . . . and all else too) yada yada and "you are not even that fast yoursellf neither understand setups to have a say" yada yada too but ... as Jardier mentions at his video, "dont ask why" (just do it if you are in for the competitive scenario or want that extra advantage over others).

Thx for the video!

[katerinaki]

Drive aggressive setup , correct tyre pressure and brake early , or in every brake point correct , so you will have the time to take the turn better and better and better everytime you give hours at the game .
Just play the game and don't try too much , because when we try too much We usually brake late and ruin everything .
When i say "we" I speak for the People who are not fast or begginers .
Play with ai , find a good % that is fast as you and race with ai .
On line maybe feel a little acomfortable as a begginer because people tend to violate you when they are behind , only good racers knows when to pass you correct and they understand that the guy Infront is a begginer.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by katerinaki:

Drive aggressive setup , correct tyre pressure and brake early , or in every brake point correct , so you will have the time to take the turn better and better and better everytime you give hours at the game .
Just play the game and don't try too much , because when we try too much We usually brake late and ruin everything .
When i say "we" I speak for the People who are not fast or begginers .
Play with ai , find a good % that is fast as you and race with ai .
On line maybe feel a little acomfortable as a begginer because people tend to violate you when they are behind , only good racers knows when to pass you correct and they understand that the guy Infront is a begginer.

Consider it like that when going online.
Despite people having different skill levels there are lots of people that already struggle to remain inside the track and "awareness + prediction of what car behind/by-the-side/ahead will do" is an even greater struggle or even unthinkable, but still "most people" even when driving slower are used th around the same braking points so if driver in front brake much earlier than that (lets say like 15m or 25m or more too early) driver behind will have a hard time to even react if driver behind is around 0.5s distance from car in front, what "is a normal thing to do" even more whne you arre following car in front and trying to overtake on the next turn exit or next straight (not on the braking point).

So, in short, "it is not that drivers behind violate you" (some indeed do it on purpose, but that is something else), it is more that "if everyone/most hid you from behind at certain turns and always at certain turns" it mean your braking point is still so off you become unpredictable and a danger for car behind and for yourself (what, in all seriousness and a thing I used to do when I was that much slower, just hand the position before the braking point, it is safer for both and eventually car behind will overtake you, but the sooner the better and the less chances of him not predicting your braking point or making a mistake and hitting you also the less chances of you wearring your tyres so much your own car become undrivable even if you are too slow already in comparison to others).

SURE, driver behind have to take care with driver in front too and there can be "skill issue" from both sides (also depending cars can have damage what change cars reactions demanding different driver reaction too, there is that too along with driving decisions and skills) still as much as "driver behind have responsibility" driver in front too, driver in front can not just drive "however driver in front wants" as much as driver behind can not too.
Driver behind need to understand if driver in front brake earlier, move on the side.
If driver in front move in front under braking zone "and" start braking earlier, there is not much driver behind can do. If driver in front brakee earlier and dont move in front of driver behind, driver behind have to just stick there and dont lean into driver in front (same is true to driver in front, dont just lean toward where driver behind will eventually be or is already, if driver behind is braking deeper driver behind have nowhere left to go and if you lean where he will be or is already both will colide and there is nothing left driver behind can do, same is true for driver behind, if driver behind goes too wide pushing driver in front offtrack or lean toward driver in front that is on the inside, there is not much driver in front can do either, BOTH are responsible and have to drive leaving a space and considering the situation of the other car, there is absolutely NO RACING LINE OWNERSHIP when fighting for position and it is no excuse for either driver in front or driver behind, when fighting for position the lines are "enough to dont push anyone offtrack and dont cause a colision")

.

**I know we had talk before but I dont know how you doing now so I am making an overall average assessment of the situation from both sides, driver in front and driver behind so whe I say "you" I mean anyone in the situations I mentioned, directed to the driver that fits the situation I mentioned be it "you" yourself or anyone else.**

.

As you stated yourself (and as I usualy state too) not everyone know how to deal with a beginner andd even among those that know they may make a mistake, car slide too much or just dont manage to predict what driver in front do if it is too unpredictable so that is that too.

Driver behind have to take care of driver in front but it dont mean driver in front can do whatever, be it skills issue or on purpose (for both driiver behind and driiver in front).