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i would always recommend getting the upgraded t300 rs gt version for the 3 pedal set or just get a wheel base and wheel and get the pedals separately now sense the t300 can only come with the t3pa pedals at best and not the new t3pm or TLCM.
also if you only want a cheap 2 pedal set i think fanatec has one for like 80$ made out of metal at least and can add/upgrade to loadcell in the future.
thrustmaster also has the t3pa(older)/t3pm(newer) but idk can only mod it to add loadcell.
thrustmaster also has the TLCM loadcell pedals for around 200$ kind of hard to find in stock i have these they work well have about 1200 hours on mine there kind of a good middle ground were as if you buy something much stronger you will have to wear shoes to race lol and really if you use the strongest springs its pretty heavy and hard on the foot/ankle/knees also many options to add elastomer rubber instead of the springs to make it even harder its a 100kg loadcell i believe.
basically the key for anyone reading this plan on having to upgrade the cheap thrustmaster 2 pedal set weather it comes with the t150/tmx or t300/tx my tmx pedals lasted 1 month before the throttle went limp the spring basically permanently bent down and would not spring back.
also when taking the pedals apart you need to make sure that little cog thing is lined up exactly pefect when you put it back together or it will be way off took me 3-4 tries to get mine right i think i ended up just plugging them in so i could see were it was registering while apart to get it in the right spot lol
WHEEL SETTINGS
720 degrees (or 900 if you prefer, but I find 720 to be a better fit for my style and don't
want to have to change it in car settings every setup.)
Overall 70%
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 0
Damper 0
Boost on
Auto center by game.
GAME SETTINGS
Gain 35 (see below why so low)
Min force 0
Damper 0
Dynamic dampener 9% (this stops the wheel from rocking back and forth while centering,
like a real car)
Road Effects 12 (I like feeling some curb, adjust for taste)
Frequency 400 mhz
Steer lock 720 (or 900 same reasons as above)
Steer linearity 1
Brake gamma 1
Gearshift 50ms
The new boost mode in firmware 34 substantially increases motor forces (I think doubles from my testing, in ACC AMS2 AC) so using high settings can damage the wheel. I spent about 10 hours playing with the gain in the sim and in the thrustmaster software to find the best feel and easiest way to adjust. Leave at 70% in the software, and then use 30% - 36% ffb in game. This will keep the forces from clipping, while giving you a low end you never thought possible from this wheel.
Anyone else with their own settings that may want to try out boost mode, just use the same gain settings and cut all other feedback in half. Same for all other sims I've tested AC, ACC, AMS2.
Seriously it feels like a brand new wheel. My T300 is 1.5 years old 700+h use , 100 hours on boost mode. I keep the fan on all times, my fan has bad bearing and 27c ambient right now, no loss of forces during up to 45 min long races (longest I race atm).
Also FBB clipping will NOT show properly. The because the wheel forces are essentially doubled, the output readout is halved as a result. So if your over 50% of the bar your clipping.
I know there is a little risk because of these quirks, but I spent hours working it out so you don't have do the risky part. Plus this isn't a MOD it a setting in official firmware, so I believe it's safe as long as your not exceeding the wheels max forces.
Have fun easily catching slides now :)
My experience now with t300rs is that I would recommend everyone buying one to just buy the base and then get aftermarket pedals like fanatec, loadcell or t-lcm or better. I bought acelith gt wheel mod instant as I didn't like the feeling of the original rounded, made it into a way better wheelbase!
V8 Vantage GT3 640°
Audi R8 LMS 720°
R8 LMS EVO 720°
Bentley Continental GT3 2015 640°
Continental GT3 2018 640°
BMW M6 GT3 565°
Emil Frey Jaguar GT3 720°
Ferrari 488 GT3 480°
488 GT3 EVO 480°
Honda NSX GT3 620°
NSX GT3 EVO 620°
Lamborghini Huracan GT3 620°
Huracan GT3 EVO 620°
Lexus RC F GT3 640°
Mclaren 650s GT3 480°
720s GT3 480°
Mercedes AMG GT3 640°
AMG GT3 EVO 640°
Nissan GTR Nismo GT3 2015 640°
Nismo GT3 2018 640°
Porsche 991 GT3 R 800°
991 II GT3 R 800°
Reiter Engineering R-EX GT3 720°
Btw, your wheel is not 900°, it is 1080°, so 900° will always feel wrong.
It should be as simple as that. They show up just as controllers in Window with axis which you then rebind in game.
https://coachdaveacademy.com/tutorials/correct-steering-locks-and-ratios-in-acc/
here's a proper explanation of the wheel radius in ACC. 480 is the Ferraris turning radius, but like I said I drive with my RS500 wheel with the F1 addon the wheel set to 1080 as native and the game handles soft locking the wheel and it feels really good to me. Which is better or is it essentially the same I don't know.
I found some mid 1:54 to low 1:56 esports references at Nurb, so it is like a 1.5s difference there and the mid 1:54 is like around 1.5s slower than "what I know of" best times (not my best times).
Imho, precision and smoothness pays off, turning faster may only make you understeer more forcing you to reduce more into the turn or to return later to full throttle.