Understeer Galore

[MoonDust]

I've drivem 1.3.x for the first itme tonight "properly", and it seems the thing is understeering like hell?

I even completely changed the car setup but it just will not turn?

Car is 488.

With the setup I used to set my best personal lap, I can no longer follow the AI as the car just wants to go sideways.

I can turn the steering as far as I like, all I get is straight-line response. It's crazy stable, and I seem unable to make it unstable.

On top of that, I seem to suffer really serious degredation of the front end, with the car sometimes being unwilling to stop (i.e. after a few laps, the car is less and less able to stop from speed in a straight line, causing me to run off the track).

I've check my controls in the braking case, and they're fine.

Tyre temps and pressures are good.

The only way I can describe it is as if the front end is completely lacking grip. It doesn't seem to matter if the tyres are cold or warm, either.

[Rummy1963]

I have experienced the same. Let’s wait to hear from others for solutions.

[dave967]

Time to go with a front-engine car, much more stable. Try the AMG, gobs of torque plenty of speed.

[X Driver]

Try not to break during the curves. In Aris videos he explain how to drive fast and with total car control during the turns. Make search in YouTube and you will find all his wonderful videos.

[scoobysi]

Originally posted by MoonDust:

I even completely changed the car setup but it just will not turn?

I can turn the steering as far as I like, all I get is straight-line response. It's crazy stable, and I seem unable to make it unstable.

On top of that, I seem to suffer really serious degredation of the front end, with the car sometimes being unwilling to stop (i.e. after a few laps, the car is less and less able to stop from speed in a straight line, causing me to run off the

So all these things suggest it is something you have done, problem with your controls or your driving style as the Ferrari is one of the most used cars.

1st point sounds as though your wheel is not working correctly, how are other cars?

The 2nd point sounds a but contradictory, very stable yet unable to turn?

The 3rd point suggests you’ve closed the brake ducts or chosen pad 4 (I think it is) which degrades very quickly and is not for normal use.

How does it feel with the standard Safe setup?

[EF_Neo1st]

The 488 (Ferrari 488 GT3) actually understeers ... If you want an easier car to oversteer, try the Porche (but then ... It may spin where the 488 would understeer :P ).

It end up being about: angle of attack + racing line + too much throttle + too little brake that could have been used (maybe just one of these, a combination of some or all of these, but usually wrong racing line + too much throttle or wrong gear, or starting the turn too late with wrong angle of attack).

I may be wrong but that is what I notice I do wrong and try to improve.
When I change some (usually angle of attack and racing line) I sometimes lower my time by -0.5 to -1.5s at one turn only because I can use more throttle, earlier and not sliding sideways, able to exit the turn some 25km/h to over 50km/h faster than before and with more stability.
Being smooth with throttle, brake and steering wheel is the key to be stable.

My steering, brake and throttle technique also need to improve a lot as my skills still just basic, so is my understanding, but all these things I mentioned, when I change my behavior at the track and with steering wheel and pedals, do make better and more consistent lap times to happen.

[MoonDust]

Originally posted by scoobysi:

Originally posted by MoonDust:

I even completely changed the car setup but it just will not turn?

I can turn the steering as far as I like, all I get is straight-line response. It's crazy stable, and I seem unable to make it unstable.

On top of that, I seem to suffer really serious degredation of the front end, with the car sometimes being unwilling to stop (i.e. after a few laps, the car is less and less able to stop from speed in a straight line, causing me to run off the

1) So all these things suggest it is something you have done, problem with your controls or your driving style as the Ferrari is one of the most used cars.

2) 1st point sounds as though your wheel is not working correctly, how are other cars?

3) The 2nd point sounds a but contradictory, very stable yet unable to turn?

4) The 3rd point suggests you’ve closed the brake ducts or chosen pad 4 (I think it is) which degrades very quickly and is not for normal use.

5) How does it feel with the standard Safe setup?

1) I wish I could roll back to 1.2.x to test.

2) Wheel is fine, and the in-car wheel is turning simultaneously with mine.

3) Hmm I mean no matter what I do (to the setup) the car is unwilling to oversteer unless I'm driving completely insanely.

4) Neg. Pad 2, and ducts at 2.

5) Safe or Aggressive feel nearly the same, and both handle well with tons and tons of understeer. Aggressive will spin if I unbalance the car by rolling it left/right in a S at speed, but it too doesn't want to enter a turn and runs very wide (off the track).

If I slow enough to corner well (as I would corner in 1.2.x), I'm significantly slower than the AI at 87%.

I'll try the Porsche.

[Zerro_G]

I am currently in a discussion on this very topic on the ACC website forum. All the responses suggest that what you and I are experiencing is the sim applying physics associated with the added wight of fuel load, and the effect of that weight on the car. Like you, I was qualifying well with the light fuel load. However, when the race started with a full race length fuel load, the car was completely different. It would plow into corners and was upset by any curb encountered.

I am now testing my preferred cars with different fuel loads in order to see what suspension changes would meet somewhere in the middle.

[scoobysi]

I’d suggest that you stop messing with setups until you can drive the cars consistently lap after lap with the safe and aggressive setups. Those setups are perfectly adequate for good lap times (irrespective of fuel load) and you’re more likely to make things worse unless you really understand what you’re doing.

[jayblue]

I find with all the cars on the aggressive setup as the stint progresses the balance of the car gradually moves toward oversteer.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by jayblue:

I find with all the cars on the aggressive setup as the stint progresses the balance of the car gradually moves toward oversteer.

Maybe because of tires wear and you have a harder time to keep the car inside the track.
Depending it may also spin instead of understeering because of that.

[MoonDust]

I'll summarize my posts from the official forum.

Here's what I've found so far:

* Increase rear wing slightly
* Increase front slow bump and rebound 1 increment
* Increase rear ride height +5 mm to 60 mm
* Increase rear ARB from 30 to 40
* Reduce cold tyre inflation pressures by 0.4 psi all-round.

I've discovered that in addition to the grip changes, the tyres run hotter and the brakes cool quicker than in 1.2.3. I have needed to reduce the cold tyre inflation pressures to compensate.

I run brake ducts at 2 (unchanged).

[Mr Deap]

ARB reduce the contact patch while cornering. It may help the car to rotate from the initial turn by having reduced rear grip, but you will lose in cornering speed.

The increase in bump & rate reduce the suspension travel, making the front more responsive by being less aggressive with the brake.

Increasing the rear ride height... decrease the rear response, but result similar result as increasing the rear arb but reduce the contact patch...

Yeah they all make the initial turn in for the entry phase faster if you drive realistically. Although bomb diving with the brake(arcade trail braking) on default will deliver better result.

[Frey]

Remove TC. I can tell you will oversteer

[rola]

Originally posted by Mr Deap:

ARB reduce the contact patch while cornering. It may help the car to rotate from the initial turn by having reduced rear grip, but you will lose in cornering speed.

The increase in bump & rate reduce the suspension travel, making the front more responsive by being less aggressive with the brake.

Increasing the rear ride height... decrease the rear response, but result similar result as increasing the rear arb but reduce the contact patch...

Yeah they all make the initial turn in for the entry phase faster if you drive realistically. Although bomb diving with the brake(arcade trail braking) on default will deliver better result.

autistic ♥♥♥♥♥♥, always whining about "arcade trail braking", when your own ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ garbage video even shows the difference is fairly small.

[EF_Neo1st]

Originally posted by HighRoLa:

Originally posted by Mr Deap:

ARB reduce the contact patch while cornering. It may help the car to rotate from the initial turn by having reduced rear grip, but you will lose in cornering speed.

The increase in bump & rate reduce the suspension travel, making the front more responsive by being less aggressive with the brake.

Increasing the rear ride height... decrease the rear response, but result similar result as increasing the rear arb but reduce the contact patch...

Yeah they all make the initial turn in for the entry phase faster if you drive realistically. Although bomb diving with the brake(arcade trail braking) on default will deliver better result.

autistic ♥♥♥♥♥♥, always whining about "arcade trail braking", when your own ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ garbage video even shows the difference is fairly small.

Tbh . . one of his videos at ACC he have 7:44 at Nords with Ferrari 458 Italia while the best time I could find was 7:12 . . . it is not a bad time, but just around the average time.

I would like to see a WR or very close to it form him, as these games are so arcade...