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Ok, thanks. I'll give it a try next time i can game
1. Preload adjusts bike height.
Front high & rear high - gives most lean, but slowest direction change
Front low & rear low - least lean, but quick direction change
Front low & rear high - compromise lean, quickest direction change (front forks are at most vertical)
2. Rebound & compression affect shock speed, up & down, front & rear.
Low - shocks loose and absorb more but limited control
High - shocks tight and absorb less but limited control
Medium - shocks absorb some bumps easily and others hit hard. Controls varies depending on terrain.
It's a personal choice here, but practice and adjustments over time are the only way to go. Watch MotoGP and all you will hear from the riders is how they're trying certain settings to try and get that edge and they still struggle.
3. Spring hardness, front & rear (similar effects to above).
Low - springs soft and absorb more
High - spings tight and absorb less
4. Theory in practice.
Take the above settings into consideration when considering:-
Weight - heavier bikes have higher/tighter settings.
Speed - faster bikes hit bumps at higher speeds.
Imagine that in a perfect world the road would be perfectly flat and all your suspension settings would be at the very top. Your wheels would never leave the road and you would have total control.
Then add a bump somewhere along the line and adjust your springs and rebounds etc to take it into account. Then add a sharp curve and adjust your preloads to lean enough. Then add an S, and adjust your ability to change direction quickly enough.
I always set front preload low and rear preload high to give the best "dive in" speed vs. lean angle, unless I don't need the dive in quick scenario in which case I set preload at the highest to minimise understeer.
As an example HS is heavy so keep poo high whereas RS 125 is light so keep it low.
Or whatever dude, I could just be talking total bolleaux.