RIDE 3
SirKyrxon Mar 3, 2019 @ 12:30am
Suspension customization
Does anyone know how to customize the suspension correctly? I'm trying to make my R1 turn more. I seem to get passed by 3-5 bikes on certain tracks where the track has 3 turns in a row, as in your speed should remain within 1st-2nd gear.

For example, I've raced on the Dunlop MotoAmerica track a million times (77% difficulty if that helps). On turns 4, 7,8,9, 10 the AI turns perfectly. And then when im literally going the same speed as them i run off the track, so i have to adapt to my bike and let myself to get passed JUST to stay on the track..... from 1st place and end up in 6th after all those turns.

So ya, my question ^^^ How do i properly customize the suspension to lean more on the slower turns?
Originally posted by Ant:
Hi, try this thinking when approaching suspension settings.

1. Preload adjusts bike height.

Front high & rear high - gives most lean, but slowest direction change
Front low & rear low - least lean, but quick direction change
Front low & rear high - compromise lean, quickest direction change (front forks are at most vertical)

2. Rebound & compression affect shock speed, up & down, front & rear.
Low - shocks loose and absorb more but limited control
High - shocks tight and absorb less but limited control
Medium - shocks absorb some bumps easily and others hit hard. Controls varies depending on terrain.

It's a personal choice here, but practice and adjustments over time are the only way to go. Watch MotoGP and all you will hear from the riders is how they're trying certain settings to try and get that edge and they still struggle.

3. Spring hardness, front & rear (similar effects to above).
Low - springs soft and absorb more
High - spings tight and absorb less

4. Theory in practice.
Take the above settings into consideration when considering:-
Weight - heavier bikes have higher/tighter settings.
Speed - faster bikes hit bumps at higher speeds.

Imagine that in a perfect world the road would be perfectly flat and all your suspension settings would be at the very top. Your wheels would never leave the road and you would have total control.

Then add a bump somewhere along the line and adjust your springs and rebounds etc to take it into account. Then add a sharp curve and adjust your preloads to lean enough. Then add an S, and adjust your ability to change direction quickly enough.

I always set front preload low and rear preload high to give the best "dive in" speed vs. lean angle, unless I don't need the dive in quick scenario in which case I set preload at the highest to minimise understeer.

As an example HS is heavy so keep poo high whereas RS 125 is light so keep it low.

Or whatever dude, I could just be talking total bolleaux.

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Showing 1-5 of 5 comments
^4JB^7L^1ZR Mar 6, 2019 @ 4:57pm 
I just +1 everything as a starting point, it makes the bike feel more responsive in the corners (less under steer) and helps a lot with direction changes.
SirKyrxon Mar 6, 2019 @ 11:58pm 
Originally posted by ^4JB^7L^1ZR:
I just +1 everything as a starting point, it makes the bike feel more responsive in the corners (less under steer) and helps a lot with direction changes.



Ok, thanks. I'll give it a try next time i can game
The author of this thread has indicated that this post answers the original topic.
Ant Mar 11, 2019 @ 5:23am 
Hi, try this thinking when approaching suspension settings.

1. Preload adjusts bike height.

Front high & rear high - gives most lean, but slowest direction change
Front low & rear low - least lean, but quick direction change
Front low & rear high - compromise lean, quickest direction change (front forks are at most vertical)

2. Rebound & compression affect shock speed, up & down, front & rear.
Low - shocks loose and absorb more but limited control
High - shocks tight and absorb less but limited control
Medium - shocks absorb some bumps easily and others hit hard. Controls varies depending on terrain.

It's a personal choice here, but practice and adjustments over time are the only way to go. Watch MotoGP and all you will hear from the riders is how they're trying certain settings to try and get that edge and they still struggle.

3. Spring hardness, front & rear (similar effects to above).
Low - springs soft and absorb more
High - spings tight and absorb less

4. Theory in practice.
Take the above settings into consideration when considering:-
Weight - heavier bikes have higher/tighter settings.
Speed - faster bikes hit bumps at higher speeds.

Imagine that in a perfect world the road would be perfectly flat and all your suspension settings would be at the very top. Your wheels would never leave the road and you would have total control.

Then add a bump somewhere along the line and adjust your springs and rebounds etc to take it into account. Then add a sharp curve and adjust your preloads to lean enough. Then add an S, and adjust your ability to change direction quickly enough.

I always set front preload low and rear preload high to give the best "dive in" speed vs. lean angle, unless I don't need the dive in quick scenario in which case I set preload at the highest to minimise understeer.

As an example HS is heavy so keep poo high whereas RS 125 is light so keep it low.

Or whatever dude, I could just be talking total bolleaux.

Last edited by Ant; Mar 11, 2019 @ 5:24am
SirKyrxon Mar 30, 2019 @ 5:44pm 
Sorry im late, but thanks for your answer Ant! Just what i needed to know.
JOZ78 Mar 31, 2019 @ 6:32am 
Will not help you becouse AI is sooo scripted to make "hard" for customers who buy this game. NO mercy with them
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Date Posted: Mar 3, 2019 @ 12:30am
Posts: 5