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The point is not that "if it's possible"... of course that aways will be more skilled players. The problem is the lack of balance in this challenge compared with other similar events (even on higher career levels). I've done those other TAs right at the first lap, no bike setup, no rewind and full realism... some of those with low pp bikes. I've spent more than an hour in this one and reach my personal limit.
BTW... Why set the target time that faster than the real life record? Isn't Ride 3 a simulator?
Not bigging myself up, it took me ages but was great fun :)
Setups may totally different with every player, but mine was like the below
(Preload F8, R6 / Fork 6,7 / Rear shock 7, 7 / Hardness 8, 7)
(Gear Final 6 / 10 7 6 5 4 4)
With Pro physics, No anti wheelie, TCS off, Keyboard played
RECN, your config is close to mine. I used the Kawazaki (my favourite Big 4 in the game... but I don't think their bikes represent the real ones, that I like Yamaha more) and worked better to stiffen the front and soft the rear (that is a generic set since Ride 2... but in real bikes things may work very diferent... in real Nord could be much better to soften the bike because the road is kinda bumpie). I also turn off the anti-w and the TCS, because they don't make the game easy (for gamepad players like me... on keyboard may be different), just your bike slower and less responsible. I just turn on the auto-lean because pressing a button to do that is to much counter-intuitive (and demmands to much button-pushing).
Kensai... I really wouldn't care if challenges and races on this game were hard on player if there isn't the bike unlock system and I could just buy what I want (and have the money)... but there are a lot of very interessing bikes that need to be unlocked with gold medals... IMHO.
As for setups, the primary one is obviously the top one. Allowing too much lean can cause a lot of problems. The rest I go off bike weight primarily. I had the rest of my R6 settings on 8. It got the bike nice and nimble.
I start off with settings at maximum then reduce as required.
I turn off TCS because that prevents me from performing sliding rear wheel, which is lot useful when i need faster escape from corners. Of course, i don't ride that hard in my real life
So why not start there, and THEN compromise?
But in game that is exactly what I meant with "don't make the game easy". Ride3 is very forgiving with controls... that said, restricting your bike "rotation" make things harder because your turn radius will aways be larger. It's easier to get use to be easy on throttle than to find race lines that fit a bike that refuses to rotate. But that is for me... is better that anyone ride the way is more confortable.
In racing vehicles setup the extremes usually are far from the optimum. We usually change a factory setting (that in real life don't work exactly like, just talking about simulators) only to fix some tendency that don't match the track or rider/driver stile (even them, is better that the rider/driver change his stile than to change the bike/car). The only exceptions are aerodinamics, gear ratio and fuel, that is common to use extreme settings on some vehicles.
After you learned how the vehicle is behaving on the event and doing all you can, them is when you start to change things (in a very long and demanding process of trials and analysis).
Of corse... that is what works for real racing and hardcore simulations... for Ride 3 I think your strategy may be the best way. And you at least have a strategy for setting your bikes... I usually don't care that much in this game lol