Can't remove Anti-wheelie?

[Cherry]

So I turned off all the assists and traction control, yet even when I use a bike with 200 HP and go full throttle, it would barely wheelie using just power. And if I use the analog stick (I use an xbox one controller) to wheelie, it is super easy to control and impossible to fall off the bike.

In Ride 2 it wasn't like this, if I go full throttle on low speeds with any 600+ CC bike in Ride 2, I would immediately lift the front wheel too high and fall off the bike.

What is going on?

[TCN]

They seem to have 2 seperate rider aid systems, with one behind the scenes no matter what. Or maybe just very dulled down bike reactions.

On a bike that came from the factory with rider aids, it seems they will always have them. There are then the games rider aids which you can turn off.
So with a late model 600cc bike, even though you turn it all off, it is still riding with the "factory" aids. Take any late model and then ride its older mid 2000s version. The mid 2000 version is usually more prone to slides and wheelies on power.

What's irritating is that even when you turn all aids off and its on a bike that doesn't have factory aids, there is still a hand guiding and controlling things.
The 2004 ZX10R even says in their blurb that 3rd and 4th gear wheelies are a thing to contend with as it's a beast. Yet it barely lifts in 1st gear on the power.

[Jez Hammond]

I still do this by habit and don't know if the mini patch fixed a bug we had or not... so once the speedo kicks in with the bikes milage (tripometer), I set TCS to low and then back to off.

On an R6 the front end is very light, my controller has just 2 buttons on the face plus shifters, so the compromise was lean forward plus rear brake. Then foot pedals for throttle plus accelerate. So there is no lean backwards to enduce a canned wheelie.

For sure in my situation it is not easy to hold a wheelie without flipping, mainly because the buttons are digital, rather than a trim analog. But also because I don't have a dedicated "wheelie" button that I read about. Also the R1 has me usiing low anti-wheelie. I didn't expect that at all coming from TT IoM game where leaning forward alone would deal with this.

[TCN]

Ah yeah I forgot about the turning TC on then off again after the flag drops. Still though it leaves you with the aids the bike would come with and there's nothing you can do for that

[Jez Hammond]

For sure there is stuff keeping the bike like a trike etc. I just thought it was gameplay rather than simulated crash aids.

[TCN]

Originally posted by Xammond:

For sure there is stuff keeping the bike like a trike etc. I just thought it was gameplay rather than simulated crash aids.

Yes its how they have decided to model the riding of the bikes.
Apparently a 1998 Gsxr750 race mod has 200hp and weighs 160kg...the real WSBK ones only hit 165-175hp, but anyway.

Being an old school sbk bike I expected a real challenge, but sadly it doesn't behave any more wayward than a 600 in game.

I've felt that a somewhat more suitable feeling is to put all the mod parts on except the tyres. With a cbr600rr I tried it with, it certainly was acting more as if expect it to. Can't just pin it from when you first pick the throttle up in the corner

[Jez Hammond]

I've avoided race-modding bikes, as they end up DQ'd from career. Obviously purchased the Anvil R1 though! <- Something I had highly desired since March playing that other game.

I like the sound of that, downgrading tyres. I've spent so long on career that I forget what I was looking for in this game. But I learned yesterday not to always upgrade bikes at all as this effects the AI which in turn effects how I ride.