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Overall, its a pretty good DLC, but both questlines share a lot of quests. Vampire lord is fun for a while, but there really isnt a lot to do with the vampire storyline.
The Dawnguard side has more quests, and it can have more of a lasting effect on the game. You can join the Dawnguard and still become a vampire lord temporarily.
There are a couple new areas to explore, which can very different to what you might expect.
The whole DLC is intended to be played at somewhat lower levels, say 7-20. ;)
Jimanity - Sithis was fine with my ancestor, the Champion of Cyrodil, being a vampire, and Sithis likes Babette, so that's good enough for me!
The vanilla serena is a major wimp as a follower as well, or at least she seemed to be when I did it with the lv60ish toon, most of the enemies were chopping her to bits, which meant she spent most of her time on her knees doing nothing, though to be honest I do use a npc leveling mod, which makes most npc's level with me.
But the save just before then follow both paths is pretty much what I did, just never managed to get the dawnguard side of the quest finished, only the vampire side.
Dawn guard has some interesting people to talk to... and the vampires are ready to slight each other's throats. Unless you get the Castle rebuilt mod the vampire side which adds a descent bit to the vampire side... you won't get much. Heck you can become a vampire lord as a dawnguard so the vampires don't even keep the vampire lord perk.
Unmodded I'd say dawnguard. Modded and you might like the vampire side a little bit more.
Doc, do you really have to rant about Serana in every thread that mentions her...?
No, I guess I dont. Its almost a trademark now though. :D