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You have to finish the game with Dante first in order to unlock Vergil. Beware, that Vergil does not have his own story. You only have access to two cutscenes and then you play the same levels as Dante (but without cutscenes).
For the costumes part, you unlock Coatless Dante beating Easy mode, DMC1 beating Normal, DMC1 Coatless beating Hard, and the others i dunno which difficulty is neccesary to beat but they are Sparda, Super Dante and Super Sparda.
Vergil has his own costumes too, which are Coatless Vergil, Nelo Angelo (Vergil corrupted by Mundus) and Super Vergil. Dont ask me which difficulty unlocks each of them 'cause i only play Verg in DMC4.
To select Verg you have to start a new game and there you will be able to choose him.
Hope it helps dude!