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I never messed with the tuning that much back in the 360 days, but I can confirm what you're saying. I had this discussion on a Youtube video with the owner of the channel and we managed to beat open class TT by only upgrading tires and clutch, for what it's worth.
I feel like I'd tinker with the cars much more if I got to race humans on a regular basis rather than AI, but it's hard to get big races going. Not a lot of players.
I'm not at the TT level in my career yet in the game, but if I want to fully upgrade the suspention for durability, I'll probably try the softest settings on everything first, and then stiffen up to taste, instead of doing what I did in 4x4 (love that old Blazer) which was try out the stock fully upgraded setup and soften up to taste.
I only messed with the springs and not the shocks. It seemed to help so I left it there.
I read your initial post and then went racing some more, determined to introduce the "tippiness" in the stage 3 TT sus and I did find a rew things. My most prevalent loss of controll comes from tire spin the instant the truck lands, especially when not landing on all four wheels. Secondly, when I tried to "clip the apex" and ran the inside tires onto the negative camber, the shock-load would cause the TT to sometimes instantly roll towards the outside of the turn. Also, in the famous "whoop" sections, not taking the exactly head-on would cause tippiness only if the throttle was kept wide open.
I have a few corrections for the instances above, listed here.
( All of theese are assuming the TT is going flat out, or at least pretty darn fast!!)
If you're going to land off-center let off the throttle and steering untill after you land.
If you find yourself losing control in a whoop section just let off the throttle and steering for one or two of the whoops.
Clipping the apex can be good, but the burm on the opposite side of the corner is where you want to be MOST of the time.
There is a relatively smooth line for pretty much every track, finding it will keep you on the ground more.
The gist of what I found is this: When you're losing control give the TT a second with no throttle or steering input. The truck WANTS to go straight and it will if you let it. Say the TT is flying and its turned to the left a bit. When it lands and the steering is already saying " GO RIGHT" the sus does not have time to reset. This causes the loading from your last jump to affect take off on the next jump. And finding a smoother line can negate the sus issues altogether!
One last thing!! Going flat-out is hella fun, but in the TT especially it's just not an option for a good few tracks. Happy racing!
From the mini trucks onward, throttle control in this game is everything.
When you watch onboard videos of Baja races, pay close attention to the throttle. The driver spends more time off the throttle than on it. Try that in the game and you'll figure them out and find your speed when you get more comfortable. It seems counter intuitive but trust me you'll still be going plenty fast.
Whenever I'm in the air, no throttle. Throttle gets blipped a fraction of a second after landing and only if composure is maintained do I get back on it about 50% and work up from there if it seems safe. Unstable ground, throttle blips only, and only when I know both rear wheels are on the ground. Whoops? Throttle blips. If the truck is swaying, even on flat ground, throttle blips to 50-75%.
Driving a TT is a matter of finesse. I would say all the solid axle vehicles have the same tendency to punish mistakes. In buggies with independent suspention these problems are mitigated somewhat, but they're a bit slower.
You have to tame the beast before you even figure out the type of tuning you like.
· Just go with the 2nd-best suspension on everything, not that big of a change (tyres and/or oil die faster anyways)
· Get the 2nd-best tyres too to avoid the "grip rolls" (oil dies rather fast on the HD version anyways)
PS: Trust me, out of the 6 Baja 1000s ever uploaded to Youtube I have recorded THREE of them.
I created a BEOC group to facilitate hooking up with people and racing but so far even though we got quite a few members, the events are ghost towns and I'm the only one who created events so far. If you join the group and want to go ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ RACING and not free roaming, hit me up.
For the TT open class I beat it second go with everything upgraded except suspension. I used arcade physics, mind (I otherwise drive with simulation physics, way more control/fun), but I honestly feel that I was being hindered more by the handling as I couldn't get the truck to steer into the corners. I got lucky I guess in that the Baja Bug binned it hardcore lap 1, and I was in 1st roughly 2/3 of the way into lap 2 when my oil died. To be fair TTs seem to not lose too much performance when the oil dies, provided you keep some speed up.
What bugs me the most though is that the cars (including the class 1 unlimited buggies) become incredibly bouncy and kick-happy on the rear just from going from level 1 to level 2 suspension, with absolutely no modifications to the suspension tuning; the class 1 buggies are my favourite vehicles and I ran the baja 1000 yesterday for the trophy (PS4 user) after spending literal hours trying to fine-tune the suspension in level 2 or 3, and what ended up happening was that I just put it back to level 1, put the suspension on stock, dropped the shocks' bounce damping a little on the rear to give it a little more give over the whoops, and I didn't really notice any difference in wear whatsoever (I made one stop on the cocono island rally, in fact I got further before needing to repair using level 1 than I did level 2). I even dropped the engine upgrades as low as I could to see if it was me just taking corners too fast. Nope.
The same goes for the TTs; level 1 suspension, no tuning, and I have no problems. Level 2 or 3 I have to soften the suspension to negate the springiness, which ends up ... making them wear out even quicker than if I just used the lesser upgrade. :/ and then if the suspension gets unloaded on a bump it ends up a wobbly mess anyway.
The tl;dr is, I'm unable to figure out how to tune the suspension on the end-game cars to behave similar to their unupgraded or level 1 counterparts but maintain the durability the higher upgrades are meant to have. It's kinda frustrating. Would be nice to be able to figure out, though it seems the consensus is that it's a trade-off between stability/ease of use vs. durability. Kinda wish we were able to adjust ride height, the upgraded suspension is probably raising the center of gravity too high.
(( I'll admit I have terrible throttle control and probably should lift a little on the bumps but the force feedback on PS4 is pretty bad and I get no real feedback towards whether I'm applying too much throttle or not. :/ ))
edit saying all that I'm debating picking up Baja on PC and would be more than happy to do so if it gives me people to play the game with. Probably not very good, mind you, I need to learn manual for a start heh. Clutch spam OP tho.
If you get it on PC and you want to do long baja races online, join the group or hit me up.
https://steamcommunity.com/groups/BAJAEOC
I'm not like the best player out there either, but I'm good and endurance is my jam.
Cool beans. What's your timezone, though? I'm UK-based. :/
edit
Time to practice manual :P