Differential Tuning

[Cappucciniissimo]

Hey guys!
Can someone explain the differentials in this game for me?
I dont quite get it, the descrpitions are very vague and sometimes it feels like the opposite of what the descriptions say is actually true.

For example the rear differential: "Open [-] more traction, less control, closed [+] less traction more control."

When driving I dont really feel much of an effect, however if so, then that the closed differential actually gives less control.

Same with front diff.

What are the effects of each setting? Also in terms of understeer/oversteer because with this description for me this would mean:

more to the left = more under/oversteer.
But it doesnt feel like that somehow.

Thanks for your help!

[Arete]

Diffs are quite complex, so how the car behaves with different diff settings can be a bit tricky and also depends on how you drive.

For the front diff, you can generally say that looser diff makes the front more nimble and responsive, but also less stable since the grip can move between the two wheels a lot. If you feel the front is sluggish, try opening the diffs a bit. If you find it moves around too much and is twitchy, try tighten it up a bit.

Rear diff is more like open diff for more grip but unpredictable in corners, and tight diff for more predictable oversteer but less general grip.

But then it comes down to how the diff settings interact with each other and the suspension settings, and that is a whole science in itself. You'll just have to experiment.

[Cappucciniissimo]

Thanks a lot! Your explanation helps, I understand it a lot better now

[zefrancou]

Low dif increases traction : at front, the car becomes more prompt to understeer, at back, low dif will trigger more oversteer. For higher dif, you decrease traction but reduce the oversteer (front) , or understeer (rear).
The set up I use in all conditions to allow a bit understeer and avoid drifting in rocks and bushes is 1.08 at front and 1.22 at the rear. It gives me traction still from the rear but allows the car to enter well in turns.
The only car for which OI found very difficult to find the right setup as I was sliding constantly is the skoda. IN the end I put 1.02 at front and 1.40 at the rear.

[NTU]

Diffs are not complex at all. Locked means both wheels on both sides spin at the same speed under load. An open diff allows for slip. It only goes from 1.00 to 1.50 though, I'd like to be able to adjust the center diff too, that'd be cool! 90% power at the rear XD

I usually have the front at either 1.00, 1.10, or 1.30 and the rear at 1.30 or 1.50 depending on what stage and mood. Whoever said it's complex doesn't know anything about differentials.

How much slip do you want. Easy. ONE SENTENCE, SIX WORDS!

[Wintec]

All of the explainations are fine in the "Real world" but in the game I have tried all types of settings for the diffs and have settled for maximum on back and front.

The Devs need to make changes to the setup of the cars so you can feel the difference when you move the sliders.

[NTU]

I notice a big difference..

[Cappucciniissimo]

Originally posted by NTU:

Diffs are not complex at all. Locked means both wheels on both sides spin at the same speed under load. An open diff allows for slip. It only goes from 1.00 to 1.50 though, I'd like to be able to adjust the center diff too, that'd be cool! 90% power at the rear XD

I usually have the front at either 1.00, 1.10, or 1.30 and the rear at 1.30 or 1.50 depending on what stage and mood. Whoever said it's complex doesn't know anything about differentials.

How much slip do you want. Easy. ONE SENTENCE, SIX WORDS!

As Wintec said, i know how it works in real life but in WRC 7 it didn't feel that way so that confused me

[NTU]

It feels the same way, I don't know what drugs you guys are taking. I can't cope with people's opinions that aren't the same as mine, so I get the desperate need to insult those who disagree. My apologies.

[zefrancou]

You won't see a big differrence in the values given in the game..from 1.06 to 1.10 in diff, from 35000 to 35500 in suspensions, or from 3000 to 3500 for the stabilising bar, however, the behaviour can change dramatically. I found the right set up to avoid hitting the tracks with the nose of the car when the car was entering a small "cuvette" followed by a bumper.... now I can run El chocolate full speed, well, ....humbly at the bounderies of my skills:)))

[Cappucciniissimo]

Originally posted by NTU:

Diffs are not complex at all. Locked means both wheels on both sides spin at the same speed under load. An open diff allows for slip. It only goes from 1.00 to 1.50 though, I'd like to be able to adjust the center diff too, that'd be cool! 90% power at the rear XD

I usually have the front at either 1.00, 1.10, or 1.30 and the rear at 1.30 or 1.50 depending on what stage and mood. Whoever said it's complex doesn't know anything about differentials.

How much slip do you want. Easy. ONE SENTENCE, SIX WORDS!

Alright, what setting do you recommend me if, say, I want the tail of my car to hang out in the corners so I can powerslide and make pendulum turns without understeer? => I wand more oversteer because pulling off powerslides with oversteer is so satisfying.

[NTU]

Originally posted by Cappucciniissimo:

I wand more oversteer because pulling off powerslides with oversteer is so satisfying.

Lol try front diff at 1.00 and rear at 1.50

Front suspension softer (26k springs, 1500 everything else) and have the front of the vehicle lower than the rear. For the rear suspension, stiffen everything up (32k - 38k, and 3500-5500 for the dampers) and raise the height a bit. You should get plenty of oversteer that way. I certainly do rofl.

[zefrancou]

To reduce understeer and increase oversteer , put the stabilising bar front at 2500-3000 and the rear stab at 7000-7500... it works wonderful.
To avoid big bouncing, soften the supension as NTU describes, but have fast dampers 6000 on the compression and 7000 on the expansion.

[NTU]

You want a looser front anti-roll for more roll. Roll = weight transfer which equals scandinavian flick which equals oversteer. Grippy front with a loose rear is the ideal setup for a drifting around so you can still correct the vehicle mid-turn. Otherwise you won't have grip at the front, NOR rear. But if you want to go full ham, do it like he said.

[Cappucciniissimo]

Thank you guys, will try that out! :D