Factory cup setup help.

[Exscalerber]

I have this game on xbox but I'm struggling with getting a miduga factory cup car competitive.

I have done the backyard and with some disgraceful driving standards the second race at the top of the map. But I can't even stay with the racers on the mine but corner better than them.

I think it's a top speed issue, could anyone give some advice?

My build uses:
Base Jingu engine with sports spark plug and a y midwife with stock rear muffler
This give 145hp with more torque than the stock miduga engine
I use the 6 speed gearbox from euroa D6P
I use the locked rear wheel drive differential also from euroa R2LW
Euro level 2 racing suspension with miduga racing brakes and wheel hubs.
Euro direct steering with a panimera steering wheel.
18in. Rims with street tyres witch is mandated by rules

Any help would be appreciated I don't just want to keep putting the lightest parts if I am missing something crucial.

[Tahnval]

Quick answer:

I think that you'd find a different differential would make the biggest difference. I used a Euroa R4 W!, a 4WD diff with a final gear ratio of 3.00. 3.20 might have been better as I didn't top out on speed with 3.00.

More details, if you want them:

I've found that torque is a bigger factor than hp when choosing a diff, so the Jingu CV8 tends to work best with a lower final gear than a person might expect from the hp.

The final gear ratio has a big effect on top speed and you said that you think it's a top speed issue and that your car can't stay with the NPC cars on the straights, so I think it's mostly the diff that's what's holding your car back. The one you're using has a final gear ratio of 3.80.

I made some other different part choices with the test car I made, but I think the key difference is the diff.

I used exactly the same engine and exhaust system you did because I think it's perfect for the job.

I went with 4WD because I find it easier to get the power down with 4WD than with RWD, especially with street tyres.

I used a Euroa D50 gearbox, mostly because that's my usual gearbox for non-budget builds (I use a Walea D4R for budget builds).

I used Narnoo Sport suspension all round, mainly because that's my usual suspension for dirt tracks and off-road. I find it works well for both smooth dirt tracks and bumpy dirt tracks.

I used Walea steering, mainly because I think the Miduga steering doesn't have enough angle for bendy tracks and I like the Walea steering with the Narnoo Sport suspension.

I used 255x15 KS wheels, with matching street tyres. The Narnoo Sports suspension increases the ride height, so I'd be wary of larger wheels with stock suspension. The 255x15 KS is the lightest 255x15 wheel and 255 is as wide as you can get without larger wheels.

I did some lightening, although I left the relatively heavy Miduga dashboard and lots of dials because I couldn't be bothered to swap it to save a few kilos. Weight was 1273.4 with a full tank.

I won in 9:35.78, about 47s ahead of 2nd place. I'm a player of medium skill and I'm using a keyboard and I don't race that track often.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3335365118

[Exscalerber]

Originally posted by Tahnval:

Quick answer:

I think that you'd find a different differential would make the biggest difference. I used a Euroa R4 W!, a 4WD diff with a final gear ratio of 3.00. 3.20 might have been better as I didn't top out on speed with 3.00.

More details, if you want them:

I've found that torque is a bigger factor than hp when choosing a diff, so the Jingu CV8 tends to work best with a lower final gear than a person might expect from the hp.

The final gear ratio has a big effect on top speed and you said that you think it's a top speed issue and that your car can't stay with the NPC cars on the straights, so I think it's mostly the diff that's what's holding your car back. The one you're using has a final gear ratio of 3.80.

I made some other different part choices with the test car I made, but I think the key difference is the diff.

I used exactly the same engine and exhaust system you did because I think it's perfect for the job.

I went with 4WD because I find it easier to get the power down with 4WD than with RWD, especially with street tyres.

I used a Euroa D50 gearbox, mostly because that's my usual gearbox for non-budget builds (I use a Walea D4R for budget builds).

I used Narnoo Sport suspension all round, mainly because that's my usual suspension for dirt tracks and off-road. I find it works well for both smooth dirt tracks and bumpy dirt tracks.

I used Walea steering, mainly because I think the Miduga steering doesn't have enough angle for bendy tracks and I like the Walea steering with the Narnoo Sport suspension.

I used 255x15 KS wheels, with matching street tyres. The Narnoo Sports suspension increases the ride height, so I'd be wary of larger wheels with stock suspension. The 255x15 KS is the lightest 255x15 wheel and 255 is as wide as you can get without larger wheels.

I did some lightening, although I left the relatively heavy Miduga dashboard and lots of dials because I couldn't be bothered to swap it to save a few kilos. Weight was 1273.4 with a full tank.

I won in 9:35.78, about 47s ahead of 2nd place. I'm a player of medium skill and I'm using a keyboard and I don't race that track often.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3335365118

I will give 4wd differential a go. I hadn't considered that as I was trying to save weight but my walea had the same engine with a 4wd differential. Couldn't remember the one I used as I accidentally sold it for one of the jobs.

Thank you

[Tahnval]

Originally posted by Exscalerber:

[..]
I will give 4wd differential a go. I hadn't considered that as I was trying to save weight but my walea had the same engine with a 4wd differential. Couldn't remember the one I used as I accidentally sold it for one of the jobs.

Thank you

If you prefer RWD I think that would work too. I think it's more about the final gear ratio in the diff.

[Phosphorus_]

I was just peeking around to see if anyone else was experiencing some walea factory cup difficulties. And I can agree that using the CV8 is the best way to go since its low hp and very torque'y. However, I chose a different diff, gearbox, suspension, steering, exhaust, and tires. (please note I chose these parts because I have progressed enough to have plenty of funds to explore what works for me) (sr=spring rate, df=damping force)

I chose the Euroa II 3.50 4x4 differential because I knew that low hp meant the need for a higher final drive to compensate for lack of hp, and 4x4 to accelerate around corners without spinning out.

For the gearbox I used the Euroa I D30 3 speed gearbox with a Euroa clutch, mainly for weight reduction but also helps tighten the torque curve to just between two gears (mostly) instead of 3 or 4 gears getting in and out of corners.

For suspension I chose Euroa I racing suspension all 'round for rigidity and stability around corners, specifically the .15mm travel, 50% centre, 92k sr, and 1640 df.

For the tires I chose the burnu 210x18 aluminium rims seated in 210/50x18 street tires, inflated to halfway through the green zone for high speed.

For exhaust I used the twin midpipe with one sport exhaust and one regular exhaust without any added performance boosts. I did this because with two Walea sport exhausts I would be over the hp requirements and we can't have that. I also find that you should use racing oil (why not) and using normal headlights vs intake headlights did not seem to make a noticeable difference for me.

For steering I use the generic Walea steering with 33 degrees of angle, and weight reduction such as no taillights, no spoiler, and about a quarter of a tank of fuel topping to about 1260kgs.

[Tahnval]

That's one of the things I like about Revhead - there are many combinations that work well.