Car is redlining really quick

[Soulless]

I'm driving a Panania and it says the top speed is 300 km/h but I can't get it to go over 210 km/h. I've tried all sorts of different gearboxes, differentials, and motors but I can't figure it out. Can anyone help?

[MinionJoe]

You'll need a differential with a high ratio number.

Could also need a transmission with more gears (5 or 6).

[Soulless]

I have the transmission with 6 gears, and the differential with the 4.70 ratio (which is the highest that will go in the Panania)

[MinionJoe]

Dunno then. I'm only 4 hours into the game.

[Reuqnoc]

lower ratio number is faster. higher for acceleration

[MinionJoe]

Reuqnoc a écrit :

lower ratio number is faster. higher for acceleration

You're absolutely right. Got it backwards in my head.

The diff ratio is the number of revolutions of the driveshaft per revolution of the axles.

[tyusel]

"The diff- and gearbox are vital to balance the car speed and acceleration. Try to chose the best gear ratio for your engine rev, power and car mass. Most of the gearboxes in the highest gear the ratio is somewhere around 1:1. That means, the rpm of the engine will go through the gearbox without modification in the highest gear. The differential box ratios are in a wide spectrum, from ~1.8 to ~5 .
There is one single rule: the smaller the ratio, the bigger the output speed. If you need faster car, change your dbox with a ratio lower than the present. If you need better acceleration, take one with higher ratio number.

For a stronger engine try to place wider rims with bigger diameter, and proper tires. You will need some brake and suspension upgrade as well. By slow base cars (Jingu / Walea / Narnoo) you will need special steering to control the car at high speeds. (because their factory steerings are set for slower speeds)"

this is from the faq/hints: http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=946628106

[Soulless]

I read the faq. None of the information in there was helpful, which is why I posted here

[tyusel]

Soulless a écrit :

I read the faq. None of the information in there was helpful, which is why I posted here

you can post here an get help of course but if you miss something from it and report it there, you help to extend the faq so others can find it easier in one document later. It is just an option not a must.

[ZombieHunter]

The cars do redline too fast and continue to produce power which would never happen. I don't recommend you try it but take a manual and get 2nd gear to around 5k and then throw it into 1st. You will destroy the engine in any car. Electronic rev limiter won't help b/c it cannot stop a mechanical overrev. You will void any warranty you have and likely be buying a new engine. It will destroy the bottom end and the top end in seconds.

No horsepower / torque graph will show power after redline. In fact peak horsepower is before redline and then will fall off drastically. Any revs after peak horsepower are wasted and thus revving past this should be avoided. In racing it can be the difference between a win and a loss. I've seen morons who rev their car to redline in drag thinking it is going to go faster when all it is doing is wasting precious time b/c they are revving in an area where the engine is producing far less horsepower and they are lowering the reliability of the engine by pushing it too hard.

[Creative Pudding]

Thanks for all these feedbacks.
Regarding the engines, each has a torque curve very similar to a real engine. As you said if you rev the car over the peak, it will reduce less power, if reaches the top it won't produce any power. However it will spin with the wheel (car still moving and motor attached to wheels), which could keep the rpm around max, but as dropping time to time down a bit (when loosing torque it will drop back, when loosing rpm it will start to work again and produce torque, which will raise the torque and rpm again - if you accelerate).
The difficulties here is to balance not one but many components, such a way that most of the configuration should work well, while keep it still controllable even for keyboard users. This issue is related to not only the engine torque, but tires, diff with gears, several other engine specific setup which defines how quick or slow the engine can revving.

[ZombieHunter]

I just played again and redline seems to be fine. I think the tach in my car doesn't go high enough so it looks like the engine is redlined when it isn't. Probably the same issue. Get a new gauge and see if it is a closer match.

[Soulless]

It's not the gauge. I have the Eurora I racing gauges. The motor is redlined on the gauge and I can HEAR that it's redlined. I know cars and I've tried all the common sense changes as well as changing things around that I know wouldn't work in real life but thought maybe they would work in game for whatever reason. I guess my biggest issue is, why does the car info tab show that the top speed is 300 km/h when the car actually tops out at 210 km/h. Because if the info tab said it topped out at 210 km/h I wouldn't even question it

[Dr. Death]

I am using the 4.2 diff with the 6 gears on the panania and it tells me the max speed is 195kmh. I buy the 300 kmh race panania and it has the same differential and transmission. I buy the 3.2 locked diff and it STILL tells me the max speed is 195 kmh.


Is this a bug or an issue regarding max speed? the race wanja i made could reach about 270 kmh no problem.

[Creative Pudding]

Top speed is the "factory" or in case of custom build "measured top", but it;s static.
The top speed in the info is the top speed of the original setup. It is not realtime, but a preset of a car. If you buy a factory BB, you would get a top speed, which is the top if your car is perfect in that setup. If you change the setup, your car will be faster/slower, but this won't change the original top speed, yet.

We have it on our roadmap to change this to realtime, it will come.

[Dr. Death]

Creative Pudding a écrit :

Top speed is the "factory" or in case of custom build "measured top", but it;s static.
The top speed in the info is the top speed of the original setup. It is not realtime, but a preset of a car. If you buy a factory BB, you would get a top speed, which is the top if your car is perfect in that setup. If you change the setup, your car will be faster/slower, but this won't change the original top speed, yet.

We have it on our roadmap to change this to realtime, it will come.

Oh. That explains a lot.