Car dies without choke

[Tenix]

I have tuned the rocket shaft but it still dies, I don't know hot to tune the carburetor without the gauge (fuel/air). When I tune the carburetor should I use the choke or not ? (if I shouldn't then how do I tune it because it dies after a few seconds)

[Rontti]

no, you shouldnt use the choke.if it dies without the choke, that means its running too lean. scrolling down makes the mixture richer and scrolling up makes the mixture leaner.

[djpudz]

The only time you should adjust carb settings is when the car is warmed up with the choke off, a cold engine needs richer a/f ratio to run and the choke is how it does that so it could mess up adjustments made.

When an engine is cold it will cut out without the choke, that is how carburettor engines are not a fault (it is possible to make it start from cold without cutting out by making it run rich). The choke is there to stop it cutting out when cold (the more you pull out the choke the higher the car will idle).
Some later carb engines (80's, 90's era) had an auto choke but all have a choke of some kind (modern engines are fuel injection and the a/f ratio is controlled by the ECU so they don't need a choke).

When you first start the car (fully cold)
-pull out the choke
-start engine
-wait until temp needle is at the 2nd marking on the gauge
-take choke off

When you turn off engine and come back later to restart car just start without choke unless you have been away long enough for the temp gauge to drop back down.

Ratio tips;
14 a/f ratio = approximate default road use setting
higher than 14 a/f = lean/better fuel economy
lower than 14 a/f = rich/better performance but higher fuel use

[Tenix]

Originally posted by djpudz:

The only time you should adjust carb settings is when the car is warmed up with the choke off, a cold engine needs richer a/f ratio to run and the choke is how it does that so it could mess up adjustments made.

When an engine is cold it will cut out without the choke, that is how carburettor engines are not a fault (it is possible to make it start from cold without cutting out by making it run rich). The choke is there to stop it cutting out when cold (the more you pull out the choke the higher the car will idle).
Some later carb engines (80's, 90's era) had an auto choke but all have a choke of some kind (modern engines are fuel injection and the a/f ratio is controlled by the ECU so they don't need a choke).

When you first start the car (fully cold)
-pull out the choke
-start engine
-wait until temp needle is at the 2nd marking on the gauge
-take choke off

When you turn off engine and come back later to restart car just start without choke unless you have been away long enough for the temp gauge to drop back down.

Ratio tips;
14 a/f ratio = approximate default road use setting
higher than 14 a/f = lean/better fuel economy
lower than 14 a/f = rich/better performance but higher fuel use

Ok I will try ones again (i thought i had the ratio good cause the smoke is transparent/white without the choke of course, but still dies after few shor seconds) with the gauge that I now have

[Tenix]

Originally posted by Tenix:

Originally posted by djpudz:

The only time you should adjust carb settings is when the car is warmed up with the choke off, a cold engine needs richer a/f ratio to run and the choke is how it does that so it could mess up adjustments made.

When an engine is cold it will cut out without the choke, that is how carburettor engines are not a fault (it is possible to make it start from cold without cutting out by making it run rich). The choke is there to stop it cutting out when cold (the more you pull out the choke the higher the car will idle).
Some later carb engines (80's, 90's era) had an auto choke but all have a choke of some kind (modern engines are fuel injection and the a/f ratio is controlled by the ECU so they don't need a choke).

When you first start the car (fully cold)
-pull out the choke
-start engine
-wait until temp needle is at the 2nd marking on the gauge
-take choke off

When you turn off engine and come back later to restart car just start without choke unless you have been away long enough for the temp gauge to drop back down.

Ratio tips;
14 a/f ratio = approximate default road use setting
higher than 14 a/f = lean/better fuel economy
lower than 14 a/f = rich/better performance but higher fuel use

Ok I will try ones again (i thought i had the ratio good cause the smoke is transparent/white without the choke of course, but still dies after few shor seconds) with the gauge that I now have

Yep the car still dies with the f/a mixture being around 14

[Tenix]

Originally posted by djpudz:

The only time you should adjust carb settings is when the car is warmed up with the choke off, a cold engine needs richer a/f ratio to run and the choke is how it does that so it could mess up adjustments made.

When an engine is cold it will cut out without the choke, that is how carburettor engines are not a fault (it is possible to make it start from cold without cutting out by making it run rich). The choke is there to stop it cutting out when cold (the more you pull out the choke the higher the car will idle).
Some later carb engines (80's, 90's era) had an auto choke but all have a choke of some kind (modern engines are fuel injection and the a/f ratio is controlled by the ECU so they don't need a choke).

When you first start the car (fully cold)
-pull out the choke
-start engine
-wait until temp needle is at the 2nd marking on the gauge
-take choke off

When you turn off engine and come back later to restart car just start without choke unless you have been away long enough for the temp gauge to drop back down.

Ratio tips;
14 a/f ratio = approximate default road use setting
higher than 14 a/f = lean/better fuel economy
lower than 14 a/f = rich/better performance but higher fuel use

What do I do now. C'mon man you can't just leave me like that i have no idead what's wrong

[djpudz]

If it's still cutting out once warm then most likely it need's adjusting richer, if it's was too rich it would just idle at a higher rpm/be louder. Only other thing i could think is if you haven't checked if your spark plugs are worn(if you use msc editor it's the items.txt file you need to load to check wear).
14 a/f is not exact which is why i said 'approximate default' and didn't tell you to adjust it to that instead of giving you tips, there are various things that can affect the ratio it needs like how you set up everything else in the engine.
Now it's around the right setting it won't be hard to get it right though, just keep adjusting it richer small amounts at a time until its right.

[Tenix]

Originally posted by djpudz:

If it's still cutting out once warm then most likely it need's adjusting richer, if it's was too rich it would just idle at a higher rpm/be louder. Only other thing i could think is if you haven't checked if your spark plugs are worn(if you use msc editor it's the items.txt file you need to load to check wear).
14 a/f is not exact which is why i said 'approximate default' and didn't tell you to adjust it to that instead of giving you tips, there are various things that can affect the ratio it needs like how you set up everything else in the engine.
Now it's around the right setting it won't be hard to get it right though, just keep adjusting it richer small amounts at a time until its right.

Well thanks for the help Idk if it's going to work but I will try

[Troy_Mc_Lure]

other possibilitys:
1) worn pistons. if piston wear gets below 10%, they make the car loose power and cut off during idle. (piston-ring blow-by is bigger in real life) if you feel a significant loss in power, this might most likely be the cause.
2) bad distributor adjustment.. just line it up with the blue wires and see, if it makes any difference.
3) sparkplugs: worn sparkplugs (below 10% wear) cause misfires or cut-offs. they got visual wear: does the ceramic look white-ish, it`s good. when it`s gone black, it`s worn. symptoms are nearly identical to piston wear, but slightly less significant.

[Tenix]

Originally posted by Troy_Mc_Lure:

other possibilitys:
1) worn pistons. if piston wear gets below 10%, they make the car loose power and cut off during idle. (piston-ring blow-by is bigger in real life) if you feel a significant loss in power, this might most likely be the cause.
2) bad distributor adjustment.. just line it up with the blue wires and see, if it makes any difference.
3) sparkplugs: worn sparkplugs (below 10% wear) cause misfires or cut-offs. they got visual wear: does the ceramic look white-ish, it`s good. when it`s gone black, it`s worn. symptoms are nearly identical to piston wear, but slightly less significant.

Yeah i will try buying new pistons