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{ G25 / G27 / DF-GT }
you mileage may vary.
Disclaimer: this is some general information for new wheel-users intended to clear a few things up. Generally targeted at logitech-users. But I tried to keep it interesting for other wheels, as well.
In the "old days" (former G25-user here), the "profiler" was an auto-start app allowing for button-remapping and assigning, plus adjusting artificial, canned driver-side effects like "constant spring" (imitation of rubber-cord self-centering), dampening (additional friction), spring-effects - which honestly had to be turned off / zero-ed in order to not interfere with any worthwhile, realistic simulator. Also the "overall-forces" setting messed with signal-throughput big-time, like pushing and pulling tone-curves on an image-file. Used to run my G25 at about 85% setting to simply avoid top-end clipping driver-side after testing my wheel-response with the iRacing test-tool that leaked into the community (see racedepartment dot com for further info on that).
Also the motor-response in general was quite zigg-zaggy and overall very much non-linear (some of which due to the straight-cut gear-design of the G25, and I guess in part due to wear). So I later used a LUT plugged into Assetto Corsa generated from the read-out of the test-tool mentioned earlier. What a difference that made!
From what I read and hear about, the current generation Logitech wheels behave much more linear in their signal-response and the driver did away with the additional canned effects, originally intended for arcade-style racing games. Let's face it: early consumer wheels were designed for the masses, and the masses were mostly still playing the fast-food variety of racing-games, the type that looks the best in screenshots and pre-cooked cut-scenes.
Anyway: what I experienced when using the G25 in Windows-XP and later Windows 7/64 is: The "profiler"-part of the driver-package was unrealiable in it's function. Some games were cool with profiles, some were not. So the easy way out is reaching for the system-tray icon (should you still run a G25, G27, DF-GT) and closing the background process for good. You can then still make "global" driver-adjustments through the system-settings dialogue once the wheel is plugged in and finished running through calibration.
In my experience, making adjustments to those settings is to be done BEFORE you start/run your game! ALT-tab'bing out of the game and adjusting driver-settings on-the-fly usually results in loss of FFB for that already running game-instance. So this is another point-of failure you might already have experienced. This behaviour is consistent across wheel-makes btw as it happens in exactly the same way with my current Thrustmaster wheel.
Moral of the story is: know your gear there is no short-cut!
Well, as i told you in Gmail, i'm using Windows 7. It might be that i need to upgrade it to Windows 10.
There is literally no valid reason to abandon ship until mid-2020 unless you really WANT to (play Windows-Store(tm) exclusive Dx12-only titles).
FFB works for me but only when used with logitech gaming software and changing settings under the G29 tab to 'allow game to adjust force settings'
Also under car controls in game i need to select invert or steering feels weird
I am using windows 10 pro x64 version 1803
EDIT: setting on wheel is on PS4 mode (not sure if it makes a difference)
Sorry, but this is my ultimate favourite game and i need the FFB to work in this game.
Have you tried all available points of failure? (in-game: turning off steering-help, toggling ffb "on" in-game, adjusting the signal strength; selecting the right mode on the wheel-base --I believe Logitech tells PC-users to use ps4-mode or do I have that wrong? Funny enough thrustmaster's windows-drivers want their wheels to be set to ps3-mode)
And of course did you try to use the wheel inside msc after closing the profiler-process (I believe they (Logitech) still keep that tradition with the current wheels, correct me if I am wrong) and just using bare-bones global settings?
Not trying to make fun of you, since I know from experience that a) this game's wheel- and wheel-ffb-implementation isn't very robust nor intuitive (saving mappings within the windows-registry isn't really convenient in hunting down configuration-issues, I REALLY prefer properly self-documented text-files ((so files with meaningful comments for each function-call or value)) for this!)
Good luck!
I have tried everything i've possibly could. I even downloaded .DLL files for the FFB from the developer. Nothing works. Nothing.
Unless you want to use current gen cpus. AFAIK Coffee Lake and AM4 socket amd cpus won't work with W7 at all*
*W7 will work with Coffee Lake cpus with some tweaking, but it's all held together with chewing gum and happy thoughts.
Also, just as you said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VTC4k6SLWY
BTT: has anyone of you having problems with your wheels been using steam big-picture mode? Did you have "general controller support" ticked inside the steam-client? Came across another game's thread where this rendered their wheels unusable in a very similar-sounding fashion.