Car dying.

[13aceofspades13]

Car drives fine, no backfires no odd smoke, but dies at idle.

fan belt on, not too loose not too tight, stopped tightening it just... as the squeaking stopped, air fuel mixture gauge installed, AF Mixture bounces beteen mid 13s and mid 14 depending on engine temp, full tank of gas, fuel lines tight.

One time playing i was driving the car and on my merry way engine rpms bog down, engine stops, and the car starts for just a second and then dies, re starting the game I was able to quickly drive the car home and get it in my driveway all the way from town at the shop to home, it is currently sitting in my driveway.

Can the battery just go dead in this game and require replacement? can the alternator be junk? I don't have the gage pod for water, oil pressure and bat voltage yet so I cannot tell, but like i said belt is on, not too tight or loose, and alternator is spinning with the belt.

[MegaManEXE]

its sounds like its ur AF try 13.4 n if ur lost by 13.4 get a AF gauge

[13aceofspades13]

nope, Air fuel mixture sticks right between 13.5 to 14.7 depending on engine temperature, have AF gauge, on the drive the engine was getting a little warm because I was driving the car a little hard, and it was at about 14.8 when it died the one time, I can destictly remember it dying at idle at 14.7 AF which is "Stoichometric."

engine temperature at this time was also about 1/2 the gauge which I am guessing is operational temperature.

[TheBaggyFunTrain]

When you change the valve settings, make sure they're a little higher than 'just when it stops squeeking' as the valves can still catch something if they're not catching the pistons, and so damage something. Your AF is still quite high, too. try lowering it to about 13.1-13.6 when the engine is warmed up. Make sure you're using the choke to start the car as other wise your engine will do as your description states.

Originally posted by 13aceofspades13:

Car drives fine, no backfires no odd smoke, but dies at idle.


engine rpms bog down, engine stops, and the car starts for just a second and then dies,

If none of this works, then take the cylinder head to peices, and have everything to do with it (sparkplugs, rocker shaft, head itself, head gasket) and have them all repaired.
By the way, as long as your car makes a starter noise (the noise when you turn the key to start the car, not the engine) then the battery is still powering the car and isn't flat. Along with this I would still replace the old battery with a new one.
Thanks!

[13aceofspades13]

richened air fuel mixture, same result, checked for damaged parts with MSC editor, no damaged parts according to MCS Editor, installed new twin barrel and adjusted to suggested mixtures, the car... still... will.. not.. run.

In fact, now instead of running, it fires for a brief second, and then shuts right off, so really it won't even start up and stay running for a moment, it starts for a brief second, and then stops, like the snap of a finger.

I am also using choke for cold start, no luck, it won't even start now, it really irritates me because as a real mechanc i could do compression tests, and leak down tests, and look at spark plugs, and test for spark, even oil pressure, but I can't do any of this crap, all I can do is throw parts at a program and see if something comes up broken.

[Lorenzo_BR]

Thighten your valves untill they "tick" on the pistons and loosen them 2 bits above ticking. I'll idle like a dream.

[13aceofspades13]

Tried that, lostened up the screws 18-20 tirns, re tigthened them 8 turns instead of 7, when the engine was running for a quarter of a second the car made no clicking noises, but again... total run time is the same a quarter of second.


So here is what I have done so far

Filled all fluids except clutch master cylinder, i read this can cause this issue? or does this game have any common sense and will it do cause the car to die when you slam it in gear shifter grinding like a mother?

Checked everything over

looked for damaged parts on MSC editor, none found.

looked for loose fuel line, none found

adjusted carburretor to correct air fuel mixture, 13.1 when the engine warms up as suggested, issues still persist

replaced carburretor with twin carb unit, no dice

now... adjusted valves 20 turns loose and then tightening them 8, no clicking for the quarter second it was running, still... will... not... run.

I am using choke on cold starts, it makes no difference, the engine dies the same whether the choke is applied or not, I have had the carb off more than once, I have checked over what I know to check, no parts are damaged according to MSC editor unless it's not accurate?

[13aceofspades13]

also, when the car was parked I put oil in it and filled it, it has plenty of oil, coolant is also topped off, only thing I am not sure of is master cylinder fluid level, because I can't check it because I have no full brake fluid containers, and I am willing to bet dollars to doughnuts the way this little happy adventure is going that will be full too, and the POS will still not run, i even put gas in it even though it has half a tank of Gasoline.

[13aceofspades13]

I can't do it until it clicks without the engine running, and the engine was running just fine when I started off with the 20 down 7 up method before, it will not stay running for me to do it the proper way. it runs for a qurter of a second, not even enough time to move my mouse to try to get out of driving mode to adjust them.

[Lorenzo_BR]

Im gonna tell you the exact things you gotta do.
Turn on the car, pull the choke out and let it sit.
Remove the rocker cover.
Take the screwdriver out.
Thighten a valve untill you hear a ticking noise.
Loosen twice.
Repeat the process with the other valves.
Test to see if the engine will rev better or worse. If it revs better, its properly tuned. If not, you loosened them and then tighten them on accident. Try again.
Turn the car off, intall rocker cover, fill with oil.
The car will gladly idle at operating temp with the fuel mix at 13.1 then.

If you cant get the engine to idle with the choke out, take it to Fleertari and ask for engine adjustment.

[TheBaggyFunTrain]

Originally posted by lorenzobolla:

Im gonna tell you the exact things you gotta do.
Turn on the car, pull the choke out and let it sit.
Remove the rocker cover.
Take the screwdriver out.
Thighten a valve untill you hear a ticking noise.
Loosen twice.
Repeat the process with the other valves.
Test to see if the engine will rev better or worse. If it revs better, its properly tuned. If not, you loosened them and then tighten them on accident. Try again.
Turn the car off, intall rocker cover, fill with oil.
The car will gladly idle at operating temp with the fuel mix at 13.1 then.

If you cant get the engine to idle with the choke out, take it to Fleertari and ask for engine adjustment.

The car doesn't run at all m8. That's the point of this thread.

[TheBaggyFunTrain]

You've done it once, you can do it again. Take the engine to peices and take EVERYTHING to Fleetaries (this also includes transmition). Place the parts on the far section of the counter and pay for a broken engine parts repair. Rebuild the engine and such and then try it. There seems to be no simple solution to this, so I'm sorry. A 3rd party program downloaded off the internet for the game will never give you the information you need to fix such a thing. If it doesn't work, send everything in the LocalLow>Amistech>MySummerCar folder to me and I'll see what I can do.
Thanks!

[13aceofspades13]

alright, can I take the whole engine out and give him the whole engine or do I have to dissasemble the whole engine in peaces and take it to him?

[13aceofspades13]

after dissasembling the engine, MSC editor is showing a damaged crankshaft, could this be my issue? because if it is I am going to take all the breakable parts to the mechanic and have him fix them anyway, but I am curious.

In real life a damage crankshaft would require machining, and then installing over sized bearings, and then plasticgauging to insure correct clearances. failing to do so can result in spun bearings, which can further damage the engine, cause loss of oil pressure and power, or outright sieze the engine to the point it won't start.

common real life symptoms of a bad crankshaft lead to bad bearings which is a knocking noise, sometimes in extreme cases cranks can break in half. I guess my symptom could be the game simulating the engine is locked up or the crank causing so much fruction it won't turn?

[TheBaggyFunTrain]

Originally posted by 13aceofspades13:

after dissasembling the engine, MSC editor is showing a damaged crankshaft, could this be my issue? because if it is I am going to take all the breakable parts to the mechanic and have him fix them anyway, but I am curious.

In real life a damage crankshaft would require machining, and then installing over sized bearings, and then plasticgauging to insure correct clearances. failing to do so can result in spun bearings, which can further damage the engine, cause loss of oil pressure and power, or outright sieze the engine to the point it won't start.

common real life symptoms of a bad crankshaft lead to bad bearings which is a knocking noise, sometimes in extreme cases cranks can break in half. I guess my symptom could be the game simulating the engine is locked up or the crank causing so much fruction it won't turn?

Probably. The game dev is basing this off his owership experiance, and I don't think he's a mechanic, but he has a supperficial ammount of knowlage about cars. If the crank is damaged, then so be it, repair it as soon as.
And yes you do have to dump ALL the peices dismantalled on Fleetaries furthest right section of his desk. After a certain update he became very lazy. Before said update, he'd fix all the broken parts if the car was on the driveway no problemmo. Now you have to take them out and then take them to his separately. He also used to keep your car the same color as when you brought it when you wanted him to straighten out your pannels. He doesn't now! Urgh...
Hope I helped,
TheBaggyFunTrain

[13aceofspades13]

I hope this does help and I appreciate your responses, I spend more time fixing this car than driving it, literally more game hours the car has been broken than fixed, first it was a alternator, now it's this, I am growing tired of the van and I am ready to upgrade the hell out of this car.

I am going to take the crank, bearings, pistons, block, cam, flywheel, timing chain, clutch and it's assembly, and the water pump, oil pan cylinder head.

I am leaving electrics, front timing cover, timing gear, valve cover, and rockers,