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Fordítási probléma jelentése
Dang I'm getting a free education right here, thanks for taking the time to explain all this Patapov! I'd ask you a lot more questions but don't wanna hijack the thread and all so I'll keep it to 2, on equipment (because I'm a historical arms enthusiast lol). 1) For the remington 1858, cap and ball version, there's that safety notch in between the chambers, does that allow you to load 6 for the remington or is the mechanism not considered reliable enough? 2) Differences, if any, between a confederate saber and a union saber. The union was based on the French light cavalry saber right? Was wondering if the south used the same model or made their own, or bought other models in bulk from Europe. Or probably just whatever they can get their hands on most likely? Not like you have to have uniform saber models for any logistical reasons anyway.
All these cap and ball pistols were fired and reloaded daily as any moisture from dew or high humidity could cause misfires.
The 1860 Saber just came out before the war, so were available to both sides as there were quite a few in the Federal armories in the South taken over by the Confederates, and there were plenty to go around. The Union stayed with it and the Confederates copied it. There were slight differences here and there, but a close copy. Most Officers had their sabers done at the more fine armories, the enlisted troop had far cheaper models.
The saber was used up and inverted in the charge and as a stabbing weapon, not a slashing weapon if avoidable. You stabbed down impaling your target rolled wrist to allow saber to drag a bit and the target hopefully slid off you saber and repeat. Metalurgy at the time was really questionable and holding a slashing edge was difficult, and they had the tendancy to snap if stuck on something that did not 'give' and any lateral torque and they broke quite easily.
The 1860 sabers design was a combination of the best attributes of the French Light Horse, and the British 1853 Light Cavalry.
After that I advance them in the rear on the enemy line, and while they are pinned by infantry in the front, i put one cav on each infantry.
The main goal is, keep all guys that can shoot at you in melee.
Very informative, didn't even think about them having to discharge their weapons daily due to moisture. Must've been hell on logistics. I find it interesting they would still emphasize the thrust with a curved light saber, especially with what you said on metallurgy; wouldn't thrusting put it at risk of breaking more than slashing (lateral torque)?
The thrust was made inverted where the saber was held high, point facing down, arc of the blade upward, you approached you target, thrusted down, and if target was penitrated as you rode foward, you rolled and relaxed you wrist, and the curve of the blade being inverted the body easily slid off with lttle or no stress on the blade. The long edge is stronger than the broad edge, which bends easier, stand on a 2x4 laying flat or a 2x4 standing upright between two bricks, which bends more.
The only blade I ever broke was in the pumpkin slash demonstration, slashed across face of pumpkin blade twisted just a little and snapped off clean. The thrust hits on our 'scarecrow' target never broke a blade.
BTW modern 'bore butter' replicates the properties of the era wax for the black powder cap and balls. And we use crisco vegtable shortning to seal cylinder so no moisture, at target shooting events. Re-enactment cartridge is powder, cotton wad, 'cream of wheat' for correct loading size, cotton wad, and crisco.