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Personally I use SkyUI but also a mod that reverts it to Vanilla. For the most part it works fine, but things that specifically need SkyUI will not work (Honed Metal Services won't charge or deliver items (they will do the stuff immediately and for free). So...you know.
I THINK (not 100% sure) this is the one I use:
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/12770
The short answer to the OP is no.
If you wanna use MCM, you have to use SkyUI, and there is no MCM alternative.
SkyUI is not “broken”. There was some kind of issue for 1.6.640 or maybe 1.6.1130 that made it look like the difficulty was always set to Adept regardless of what you put it at, but I think it was discovered that it was just a display issue and the difficulty was actually whatever you set it at - plus I think someone made a quick fix mod/patch that resolved the issue.
By the way... if SkyUI mod is responsible for settings disapperance and breaks saving (which is a big game breaking bug), then YES, SkyUI is broken. Thx to other mods, which repair those bugs, SkyUI works as it should, but technically it(s broken...
Don’t ya think maybe you should look into that and figure out what’s missing?
“…except I have to click on SkyUI notification about missing files”
Yes, I can read.
SkyUI doesn’t corrupt saves or cause CTDs on its own. You either flubbed the install, or you’ve got something else conflicting with it - or your CTDs are being caused by something else entirely.
Yea SkyUI is "perfect" and that's why there "isn't" a mod, which fixes the problem with crash during save... and yea... I had to make something wrong... I'm just a 33-year-old computer expert who uses computers for a living...
Myself, and legions of other users have been using SkyUI for 10+ years, across all types of mod lists and game versions - without any issues.
When you’re in the small minority of people who have problems with a mod it’s almost always due to user error - missing dependencies, conflicting mods, installations that were done incorrectly, etc.