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Also, planning my roadtrip, stocking up on supplies and setting camps makes it feel like Skyrim is bigger than it is - I used to do it for RP and immersion even before I've found survival mods and then the survival mode dropped. Still do it even when I don't play survival mode/mods.
Sometimes I fast travel if I can't remember the way I got to that place to get the mark, like that dwemer dungeon and home in the mountains to the north of Riften. But I still travel to the closest place I can get to on foot/horseback.
Before that I used to fast travel to nearest mark like that guard tower near Whiterun, and then go to the city itself, because dragons and vampires would kill everybody and my horse if I teleport directly, especially if I teleport to the jarl's place instead of city gates. And since many "nearest marks" that are uninhabited by people I don't want dead are sometimes half a province away, I often just runned around without hopping.
And all that alchemical ingredients that I can grab in the wilderness were keeping distracting me and I often found myself at the opposite end of the map if I decided t ohunt some deer or chase butterflies.
However, there are times I will fast travel instead. As after you have walked the same path over and over many times, there isn't much that is new on it besides the random encounters that spawn. If have been walking it frequently, like say the roads between Lakeview Manor and Falkreath or Whiterun, the ore veins and alchemy ingredients won't refresh because you keep loading those cells. The occasional fast traveling helps to give those paths a chance to refresh.
Really, you just need to find a balance for fast traveling that works for yourself.
Can also snag some loot along the way and fight a few easy battles on horseback - or just run from them. Not many can catch up aside from dragons, and a little zig zagging throws off casters and archers.
I DO fast travel sometimes, but it's usually a sort-of-cheat of fast traveling to someplace I already am just to summon a mount (if I don't have Arvak yet).
Fast Travel only ruins the game if you never explore, if you do explore then not using it ever becomes a chore.
I like getting up early, having breakfast, and checking the map to plan my day. How much food do I bring, where will I spend the night.
Using mods, the roads have travelers, merchants, and ne'er-do-wells to have the country seem alive.
Now, when I'm building a modlist for a new game, I will use fast travel for testing.
However, he does follow you when you fast-travel, which means you can find Eldergleam Sanctuary early, then fast travel back to it when you have that quest.
There is also a LOT of backtracking in this game, and especially with the vanilla carriages. I am currently doing Mehrunes's Razor, and It would have been a waste of time to travel back to Markarth to take the carriage to Dawnstar after I obtained the final piece. Instead I can travel directly back to Dawnstar.
Exploration is fun, and I don't always use Fast Travel, but I do not like wasting time. Especially certain places like both HQ in Dawnguard. Having to travel to Riften then walk down the path over and over again or to Solitude and to ice water jetty would SUCK. I much prefer being able to pop over directly.
Same for Raven Rock, I'd have to got to Windhelm every single time I wanted switch locations.