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I don't know how or why, but going back to Whiterun and walking to windhelm actually fixed it.
Thank you so much!
Long story short, I had to go way back to a previous save and complete the entire civil war questline before even starting "The Fallen", which has you capture a dragon to fly you to Sovngarde. This completely skips "Season Unending", which is where you have to negotiate with all the Jarls at High Hrothgar to divvy up the cities.
As long as you don't try to start "The Fallen" by asking the Jarl of Whiterun about trapping the dragon, "Seasons' Unending" won't get started. When I did that, all my interactions with Ulrich and the camp guy went perfectly, with no glitches or bugs.
Long story longer, I think "Season Unending" really messes things up depending on where you are in the civil war. I had only completed "Message to Whiterun" and was on the part where you return the axe to Ulrich, but had not done that before I asked the Jarl of WR about trapping the dragon. That started "Seasons Unending" and everything went to hell from there.
This is still working, just did it, you the best thanks
Found solution (at least it worked for me) - travel to Whiterun (go inside the city) and then go by foot to the Windhelm - no fast travel!. Absolute ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥, doesn't work
Solution: Walk away from Whiterun (toward Riverwood is a good direction) until the battle music stops and the city icon is restored on the map. Then you may fast travel to the faction capital city and report in.
Some have used the carriage and traveled to another city, fast traveled back to Whiterun (the city icon will be restored) and then fast traveled to the faction capital.
I tried FT, carriages and many other things and they didn't help.
disable
enable
resetai
And that's it !