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Still, on my modded playtroughs I use the paper map mod or an otherwise improved map with removed clouds and textures more representative of the actual game world.
So yes, the map sucks, and without mods, there is no alternative. Skyrim has a lot of dumb dead ends that have you backtracking because of an impossible slope, a random drop or a slippy rock face. If you want to avoid that just stay on paths that are carefully modeled out and have some clutter around them, or navigate between map locations shown on your compass. That'll reduce running into dead ends a fair bit, still sometimes you'll just end up with a massive obstacle in your way and no idea how to get to that next map marker. Not gonna lie, sometimes I just noclip somewhere if I feel bs'd too badly.
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/5804
SSE Engine Fixes (skse64 plugin) - https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/17230
For that, you will also need SKSE64. This gives full info for that:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1197413219
You should also read the pinned topic Skyrim SE: Guides and Resources.
And refer to the pinned resource Helpful Links and References for guides , tutorials, vids, and other important information.
For the Unofficial Patch, go here:
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/266
And if you decide to mod your game more later (it is strongly suggested to play it with just the patch and Engine fixes first), read this:
Excellent advice regarding modding Skyrim (essay written by PeggleFrank - written for original Skyrim, but basic principles apply to SSE, as well) http://steamcommunity.com/app/72850/discussions/0/343787920127409994/#c343787920127583150
And, most importantly, ask here if you are unsure of something.
Good luck!
Thanks!
Anyway, when I removed the map mod last week, it removed all my saves but the last one and now my saves have a dirty [M] in it, probably telling Steam my game is modded (which is not). In case I notice I'm not getting achievements, I'm back installing the mods, but without these third party software. Maybe trying the achievements in a second run in the future
Anyway, thanks for your suggestion.