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NPCs offer an average of 2 dialogue options... They really put all their effort in the immediate surroundings of the starting area but it gets worse as you start to travel.
http://3dnpc.com/2017/11/20/3dnpc-v3-4-for-oldrim-and-sse/
Forgotten City won an award.
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/1179
Ravengate and Specraverse add questlines with original characters, and are done by the author behind Perk Ordinator and Wildcat combat. I haven't finished them yet, but they're pretty solid so far. Though the first voice from Ravengate you are likely to hear is terrible in my opinion, the rest are much better.
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/12617
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/11215
I also use the Wheels of Lull, a quest mod that focuses around The Elder Scroll's metaphysics and is made by an author nostalgic for Morrowind:
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/748
And of course, Beyond Skyrim: Bruma adds the imperial providence of Bruma into the game, with its own miniquests and character interactions:
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/10917
Finally, I've heard good things about Beyond Reach, and the VA is solid so far for me.
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrimspecialedition/mods/3008
Of course, these mods are still bound within the limits of Skyrim's old, clunky, terrible engine, and the general confines of video games (so don't expect too many realistic facial reactions), but they use their strengths much more effectively and are better written than most vanilla content.
But to say that 90% of mods are graphical or superficial is nonsense. Look deeper. There are alternate start mods, perk overhauls, combat tweaks. All stuff that Skyrim doesn't do well.
Edit: Don't think it works for se though.