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personally it was ok-ish, not the best because of the long travel routes and not much there but I had fun when I played it back then
There are quite a few dungeons, forts etc, some really good ones, but the mod author put them all around the edge of the map and didn't put much in the middle. So my advice just explore around the edges and you'll find stuff to do.
For the map, I'm sure there is a mod I used on Nexus that makes the map look better. Think it was A Quality World map - Falskaar - but can't be sure (was for LE version thinking about it, but should work for SE as it was just texture files).
And yeah, its kinda dumb how long it takes to walk everywhere. And there's not a lot to do even. You'll find the occasional wild animal while wondering around, but that's it. And worse yet, Falskaar doesn't really work with other mods. Most won't have any effect on Falskaar at all (OBIS and monster mods are some of the ones I know of). This makes the entirity of Falskaar feel sub-par compared to the main map with all your mods.
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrim/mods/51339
There was also a mod that added more wildlife to Falskaar, as well: Falskaar Wildlife Add-on -
https://www.nexusmods.com/skyrim/mods/50246
Ported both over to my SSE game, no problem.