bike setup

[dog]

was wondering if someone already did or can make a bike setup guide if possible with video examples from the before and after changes. Is there something like this?

[Sling]

The only thing I know is how to adjust the suspension to fix oversteer or understeer by lowering the front or back of the bike. And I know if you decrease the final gear ratio you get more acceleration, but lower top speed. If you increase the final gear ratio you get less acceleration and higher top speed. I would love it if someone would explain how adjusting each individual gear ratio affects the bike.

[eco]

in real life adjusting individual gear ratio is a good thing to optimize the rpm for every corner in a circuit. on the normal road it's a nonsense because the variety of corners. In ride 2 some bike (actually mostly bike...) have broken gear ratio. for example the Magni Filo Rosso you have to downsize the 5th and 6th gear by 2 or 3 step (I don't remember right now), in the Bimota tesi 1d ES you have to scale by one step every gear from the next, otherwise you can't never see the redzone in 5th and 6th gear, and so on. In some R1 bike you have to downgrade the 5th gear by 1 step etc. etc.

[KG_03]

Some time ago I wrote about it in VR game forum, but I have a feeling that in Ride 2 the suspension setting is bugged a little bit and it is not as reactive as it was in VR Game and it is harder to fins a good setting anyway... here I my tips.

Gear box: simple stuff. The more acceleration you need the lower ratio you set. The more top speed, the higher ratio. After test rides I look where I need more acceleration on which gear and then I try to balance the ratios. Very low ratio gives big acceleration but you can loose it becuase of wheel spinning or bike destabilisation or anti-wheelie control turning on.

Suspension: as you know the idea od suspension is to allow of the wheels to stay in contact with tarmac despite its irregularities. The comfort of riding is a sideway.

Spring hardnes: The harder the spring the harder it is to compress and bike is more responsive and precise. Each sideway bike movement causes the compression of springs. If the springs are too loose the bike will be smooth on turns but unresponsive what is not good on the tracks with chicanes or quick direction changes.

Suspension hight: on higher bike you can lean the bike more on turns. But the cost of it is the stability of the bike. The lower the bike is the more stable, but the turn radius is smaller. Also when the bike brakes the front of the bike gets lower, and it changes the angles of geometry making the bike turn easier/more agressive. When you find the bike is too agressive at the turn entrance. Just rise the front a little bit. Lowering the front will cause the bike turn faster into turns. The side effect is that the bike is more vulnerable to wheelies or rear wheel grip loss.

Compression: If there was no compression or rebound dampers the bike would jump like a ball. The more compression damping is set the more responsive the bike is but on some track irregularities the wheels can just jump over and loose the grip. The same thing goes with rebound damping. When the spring is compressed by direction changes or tarmac irregularity it moves back to its initial position. The speed of that return is regulated by rebound damping.

Handlebars: racing bikes have possibility to chane the rake and trail of the fork. The rake changes the wheel base and make the bike more stable but less responsive to turning. The shorter the wheel base the bike is less stable but turns quicker.
The trail of the wheel is its distance from rotation axis of the fork. To explain it easier look at the wheels in the shop troley. The furhter from the roration of the axis they are, the faster they turn into the direction of riding. I was explained that the same thing aplies to trail of the fork. The bigger the trail the faster fron wheel returns to its direct position, but it also changes the wheel base.

Everything is a matter of balance. Trying and setting. It is very hard on some tracks aspecially on road racing tracks but once you find perfect combination you will be able to go faster and feel more comfortable on higher speeds.

So here is the way I set motorcycles. I know that these are games and what I have learned from books about suspension setting is not alway the same as in game but at least I try to aply to that rules:

-fast tracks with smooth turns and good surface: lower bike, hard springs, high compression.
-fast tracks with chicanes: medium hight, harder suspension with lower rebound, and higher compression.
-slower tracks with many fast turns, good surface (like Macau): higer bike, smaller fork rake, high compression and medium rebound.
-nurburgring, NW200 etc. : softer springs with bigger compression, small rebound damping, bigger fork rake

there are some tracks like Nurburgring GP Strecke, where is a mix of fast corners with slow turns, and chicane. But also the surface is uneven in some parts. It is hard to find a good setting but I prefer more grip over bike precision and there I set softer.

If I was wrong in any case of something is not clear just let me know.

[dog]

thanks to everyone, especially to KGal13 which in my opinion wrote a good starting guide. will definetly consult it during the next setups.