Completely newbie with questions

[Lymark]

I ride a Ninja 250 IRL, but I'm never good at any racing games nor familiar with the rules. Did some quick google, and couldn't find any guide or tutorial at all. So, I'm hoping to get some help here. Learning to ride the R6(600cc is the only category I'm interested in for now) at Pro with realistic physics mod atm.

1) Are there any youtube channels that teach racing techniques for Ride 2? Right now, my only option is to watch and learn from those experienced players, as well as from real life videos. Learnt what apex and trail braking are, but I'd love to see someone performs and explains them on the fly.

2) What is a braking marker? I believe it's those red and white line at the edge piror to the corner,right? But how do I tell when it's time to hit the brake around that area(If racing line's disabled)? Answered

3) After exiting a corner ,my front wheel often shakes left to right very violently. How do I counter that? It's probably due to me slamming the gas too fast and hard, something I've to get used to with a Xbox controller. Besides that, will lowering rear preload or any of those dampings help compensate that?

4) One of the 'Up to 520PP' seasonal events put me up against GSXR 750 and VTR1000 SP1(medium difficulty). How is that a fair race with my R6? They end up beaten me by 13 second(3th place). Shouldn't it be based on CC instead of PP? Or Is it my fault for not picking the 'best bike' in that range?

Thank you!

[ICCABOB1]

i will answer question 2 for you, first i just want to say I cant stand that milestone even put that stupid trajectory line in these games, it really takes the thinking out of the skill of riding (as do any gaming assists) ..
So with that of my chest , in order to figure out when to start braking or slowing down (and there are a few ways to do this not just with brakes, gearing down or even just coasting)) is to learn the track and the bike you are riding, start by just cruising and go from there, you will naturally find the line as you get faster , you will find yourself drifting wide in corners , this means you entered the crner too fast and should have slowed down earlier... when using your front brake , you have more braking grip when the bike is standing, so after a fast straight you must find the best time to brake upright before you start to tip the bike into the corner, this is the most important time to find the proper corner speed that will carry you through the corner the fastest way,,, if you brake too late you still have a chance to fix your corner speed after the bike is leaned into the corner by using the rear brake only.
Practice this technic of braking hard with the front , then using the rear lightly through the corner.
The best indicators for braking points (without the stupi line) are usually on the track , dark patches and rubber skid marks indicate the general corner entery line and exit lines and they get more obvious as the race progresses,,, if your on a fast track with very little hard braking you wont find these marks as much so look for other marks on the streets like arrows or street lines..... some tracks i use telephone posts , Macau for example i was using an entire buiding for my braking marker after the fast front straight,, but im still learning that track...
Most important is doing laps and leaning for yourself, you can do it.

[Lymark]

Originally posted by ICCABOB1:

............
The best indicators for braking points (without the stupi line) are usually on the track , dark patches and rubber skid marks indicate the general corner entery line and exit lines and they get more obvious as the race progresses,,, if your on a fast track with very little hard braking you wont find these marks as much so look for other marks on the streets like arrows or street lines..... some tracks i use telephone posts , Macau for example i was using an entire buiding for my braking marker after the fast front straight,, but im still learning that track...
Most important is doing laps and leaning for yourself, you can do it.

Thanks! So, I guess braking marker is basically just another word for visual reference point. I always thought that It has something to do with those white&red lines.

And yeah, I actually do better without those lines, and I find myself learning the track better without it as I've to visually memorize stuff around.

That being said, It's a pain in the butt having to spend hours/days studying every single maps prior to the event race.

[ICCABOB1]

good point, nobody wants to waste time practicing, welcome to the new world lol. I actually enjoy the process of learning plus it makes the race more exciting, but dats just me.

[KG_03]

Nobody? I do !

[ICCABOB1]

i was kidding KG lol, but also Lymark i forgot to say that most offical race tracks have actual braking markers with numbers on the side of the track in major corners and also there are the white lines you may have been thinking of, they are the best for braking references.

[KG_03]

I don t know any chanels where someone will explain to you how to ride. Anyway I can give you some basic tips that helped me a lot.
-do not ride in game like it was real motorcycle. The in game physics do not reflect reality. You can brake hard in full lean ride on grass and gravel, and the bike set up is not working the way it should.
-use both brakes when braking hard and move the biker weight to forward. When you start to lean the bike let rear brake off not to block rear when it will loose grip and slightly release the front brake as you aproach to maximum lean or grip limit (that is signalled by strong pad rumble)
-lowest gear ratios and highest tcs are not always good. Power slides are effective but when front is rising or rear wheel is spinning you loose time.
-in racing bikes you can get additional braking by fast gear reduction overreving the engine, but dont make it too fast to avoid rear wheel blocking in some bikes.
-being fast is not always about being fastest in corner entrance. It is better in many corners to loose more speed befpre the corner and exit with higher insted of opposit. The more lean the bike has the more careful you must be with throttle. Rear wheel has the best traction when the bike is upward.
-the movement of handlebar from left to right is called shimmy. You probably accelerate to hard. To have better stability you can soften the rear suspension and try increasing trail or rake. Try to avoid wheelie. In real life shimny often occurs when front wheel rapidly recovers a traction after wheelie. Thats why lowering rear wont help.
-as you know, you ride where you look. Looking into corner is most important. Qhe approaching to corner look at it entrance, once aproachibg that point move your eyes to corner apex near the apex point look at the exit and start accelerating. In Ride 2 riding a motorcycle is more or less like 0 and 1. That means that to the apex point you brake and after apex you accelerate. In not many corners you hold constant throttle.

[Lymark]

Originally posted by KG 13:

the movement of handlebar from left to right is called shimmy. You probably accelerate to hard. To have better stability you can soften the rear suspension and try increasing trail or rake. Try to avoid wheelie. In real life shimny often occurs when front wheel rapidly recovers a traction after wheelie. Thats why lowering rear wont help.

Thanks for the advice! The bike is much more stable and i could ride even more aggressive after playing with those settings.

There's one thing that really bugs me tho, It seems like the AI(medium setting) will never make any mistakes, lose grip or anything. Even with the same bike and upgrade(RS250), the AI's still able to somehow ride way faster than me in a straight line, and catch me up from afar.

Even worse, they could magically defy the laws of physics(usually the top 3 AI), going WAY faster than me, braking WAY later than me, but still shoot through corners. If I were to follow EXACTLY the way they're doing, I'd simply overshoot. After a few more corners, they'd be out of my map, and I'll never see them again. And this is just in medium setting. It feels like I'm playing against cheaters. Is this normal?

Also, any advice finishing Sugo Gran Prix Circuit with R6 or ZX6R 636(Up to 520PP,so can't be fully upgraded) in under 1:40:00? I've spent over 10 hours, practicing nothing but Sugo with either bikes, but the very best I could do is 1:47~1:48(with physics mod). I really doubt it's even feasible without it fully upgraded.

[Hiring]

(Disclaimer: I don't have any mods for physics or anything like that, in fact no mods at all)

If you leave the tuning standard you shouldn't have any problems with proper technique, but it can save you a bit when you start to really master it, so I wouldnt worry about tuning just yet.

Trail braking: Using your brakes as you turn in. It is important that you learn proper racing line and BRAKE BEFORE YOU TURN. This is essential, but once you get that down you can shave a bit off by braking as you turn in, on slower speed turns you can lock your front brake and lose ALL your traction and low side, so I typically just use half of the front brake in lower speeds, sooner or later you'll be able to feel the bike better and adjust. Your rear brake can cause you too slide out too and can lose grip when turning.

As for the "shimmy/tank slapper" you kind of answered your own question, smoothen your gas AND steering inputs and you should be fine.

Lastly, PP is based on a number of different variables, but does not indicate how fast it will be on EVERY track. A 600 PP bike can be fast in a straight line and bad at cornering, while another is the opposite, for instance, so you have to match the bike to the track. Monza would be better suited for a 600 PP bike with higher HP/displacement while Macau or other short and twisty tracks would be better suited for a lighter, more nimble bike.

[Lymark]

Originally posted by |KRVY| CON·NOIS·SEUR:

Lastly, PP is based on a number of different variables, but does not indicate how fast it will be on EVERY track. A 600 PP bike can be fast in a straight line and bad at cornering, while another is the opposite, for instance, so you have to match the bike to the track. Monza would be better suited for a 600 PP bike with higher HP/displacement while Macau or other short and twisty tracks would be better suited for a lighter, more nimble bike.

I'm surprised by how important a proper pick of a bike is, now I could win races with ease even against hard AI without a significant improvment of my skills(cornering/trail braking is all that matters).

But, I'm not sure If I like this tho, since I'm sort of forced to get the 'best bike'(the most acceleration/speed bar) most of the time in order to win. Would be awesome If there were more specific types of races, so that I could actually race with bikes I enjoy(Say 600cc only event, or R6 vs ZX6R).