ANTI-WHEELIE ADVICE?

[Sling]

Does anyone have advice on how to prevent the repeated hopping and wheelies with high powered sportbikes? BTW, my anti-wheelie setting is set to FULL. In my opinion that should eliminate wheelies, but it doesn't.

[dog]

It works fines preventing your bike from wheeling, this is not perfect just an aid. You can use the trigger from XBox controllers for example and do not fully accelerate on first and second gear (for most of the high powered bikes. You can train without anti-wheelie enabled to get the feeling and than enable it again to avoid unexpected wheelies, this experience will help you deal with that repeated hopping.

[KG_03]

For me using rear brake while accelerating helps a lot. Recently I have learned that in real life pro riders do the same.

[dog]

Originally posted by KGal13:

For me using rear brake while accelerating helps a lot. Recently I have learned that in real life pro riders do the same.

Casual riders should do it also for a safer sport riding, majorly on blind corners, it´s simple and permits a faster slow down or "make me smile" out of the corner. Since you are breaking and accelerating at the same time you can go harder to both faster.

Never tried this on Ride because I don´t use a progreesive button to control rear brake, only the front. Maybe I should try it.

[Max Is Back]

Guys, no disrespect but as a biker for over 20 years I get worried seeing suggestions that IRL casual riders should be accelerating out of blind corners with their foot on the back brake. Not only is it shockingly bad for the bike, but coming hard out of a corner you should never be keeping the front wheel down with the back brake - you shouldn't be anywhere near either brake (covering them of course but not applying them, at all). Decelerate before the corner and accelerate out of it, never accelerate out of it with your foot on the back brake. This isn't a lesson you want to learn by high siding - trust me.

The correct (and faster) way to accelerate out of a corner is to know your machine. You should know exactly when the front end is going to start lifting in any gear (simple experience with the machine instinctively teaches you this soon enough) and you can push as close to this point as you can (or dare). But never ever try to manipulate this point while accelerating out of a corner by using the back brake. Unless, of course, you really want to see what your bike looks like from 15 feet in the air.

Naturally, in the game you can do whatever you like - it's a game after all! Funnily enough, one of the first things I tried to do to test the realism of the sim was to deliberately high side - and I was so happy to see my rider get violently tossed into the air exactly as expected! That was when I knew this was a true sim and not just an arcade racer in a fancy package.

Cheers, good gaming! And safe riding IRL!

[dog]

Originally posted by Max Is Back:

Guys, no disrespect but as a biker for over 20 years I get worried seeing suggestions that IRL casual riders should be accelerating out of blind corners with their foot on the back brake. Not only is it shockingly bad for the bike, but coming hard out of a corner you should never be keeping the front wheel down with the back brake - you shouldn't be anywhere near either brake (covering them of course but not applying them, at all). Decelerate before the corner and accelerate out of it, never accelerate out of it with your foot on the back brake. This isn't a lesson you want to learn by high siding - trust me.

The correct (and faster) way to accelerate out of a corner is to know your machine. You should know exactly when the front end is going to start lifting in any gear (simple experience with the machine instinctively teaches you this soon enough) and you can push as close to this point as you can (or dare). But never ever try to manipulate this point while accelerating out of a corner by using the back brake. Unless, of course, you really want to see what your bike looks like from 15 feet in the air.

Naturally, in the game you can do whatever you like - it's a game after all! Funnily enough, one of the first things I tried to do to test the realism of the sim was to deliberately high side - and I was so happy to see my rider get violently tossed into the air exactly as expected! That was when I knew this was a true sim and not just an arcade racer in a fancy package.

Cheers, good gaming! And safe riding IRL!

Yeah, you´re right, I didn´t gave the deserved attention for such a subject. To avoid a repeated mistake bellow is a link about this riding technique.

https://www.n2td.org/trail-braking/

Thanks for the warning!

[Max Is Back]

No worries man, I just want all my fellow bikers to ride smart and ride safe - and in doing so, have a long and happy biking life!

Great article you linked there, a very concise and well written overview of trail braking. Essential reading for all bikers in my opinion but all the more so for those who want to hone their cornering speed without sacrificing their safety - good call, thanks for that!

Cheers, good gaming and safe biking!

[KG_03]

Thats why i wrote that pro riders do this. There is a video on you tube from Brembo where they talk about motogp pro riders using this thnique. Anyway I rarely use rear brake in my real motorcycle. Also for acceleration I bet that they do not use rear brakes when the bike is leaning as Max said it can cause a highside.
@Dog i have figured out the progressive button problem for rear brake - I use for it rear thumb stick and moved gear down button to right bumper. The problem I have is mapping the button for moving weight backward but temporarly I use left thumbstick down movement for it.

[Sling]

What is a highside or high siding?

[axeslayer]

Highside is when the back wheel sides out while cornering and then re-grips the road , the momentum of the bike will compress the rear spring and cause the bike to flick back over at which point the spring will shoot back out and throw the ride into the air , take a look on Youtube you will find lots of examples .

[Leper Messiah]

The problem I have is not the wheelie of itself but the "pogo" effect of the front when you stop the wheelie, I'm no expert but it seems there's not enough compression damping on the fronts so when the front drops after a wheelie the front suspension compresses then expands and flicks the front up into a worse wheelie. edit...or is it rebound damping? One or the other seems insufficient.

The 1299 Panigale is the worst for this IMO, I tend to not tune the engine at all, it's plenty fast enough stock settings, I also shorten the 1st gear ratio and short shift to 2nd and 3rd.

[Dreaded Kane]

Using the rear brake probably has the same effect as gradual application of the throttle. Another technique I use is to short shift in first and second gear, that keeps the revs down and has the same effect.

[Sling]

Sometimes I start the race in 2nd or 3rd gear and that helps prevent wheelies.

[axeslayer]

moving your ridder forewards also helps

[Sling]

If possible, coming out of a turn you can floor it in low gears without a wheelie as long as you are leaning/turning sharply.

[RokRoland]

Originally posted by Leper Messiah:

The problem I have is not the wheelie of itself but the "pogo" effect of the front when you stop the wheelie, I'm no expert but it seems there's not enough compression damping on the fronts so when the front drops after a wheelie the front suspension compresses then expands and flicks the front up into a worse wheelie. edit...or is it rebound damping? One or the other seems insufficient.

The 1299 Panigale is the worst for this IMO, I tend to not tune the engine at all, it's plenty fast enough stock settings, I also shorten the 1st gear ratio and short shift to 2nd and 3rd.

If you are counting on the electronics (anti wheelie) to sort the pogo you'd be wrong. First time I tried S1000RR in real life I got exactly that pogo effect due to electronics, which I was blindly trusting. Ease off the gas, tap rear brake, weight to front or short shift up (as you say you are doing) because electronics will do that pogo for you - they cut in violently, nose comes down fast, electronics allow power, nose comes up and springs are also assisting this.

So fix the part where the nose comes down fast to nose comes down smoothly.