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Their only upside is that they can be quickly switched over to producing enough O2 to run a dome in a disaster, but you only need that if you failed to plan ahead and build sufficient O2 storage tanks.
And there is literally no distinguishing of food sources. It would be cool if there was, and I'd really like to see an expanded resource system in an eventual DLC, but there isn't. So you are purely shooting yourself in the foot by building hydroponics.
That, and they do not require any tech, so if you are building very early and/or have a sponsor with very low sponsor tech, they may be the only available option...
..other than, as you said, importing.
Me personally, sans that DLC (or Space Race and trading for food) and given a choice between importing food or needing to build and operate hydroponics, I'd import and put my limited manpower and resources towards more productive uses, like rares mining.