Bike setup tips

[AbsolutelyFumin]

Just wondering if anyone has some tips for the bike setups, have played with the guided setup a bit, I can win consistently by numerous seconds on the highest difficulty yet go online and guys are lapping up to 3 seconds faster! I feel like I am on the limit at my fastest and really want to go faster and can only think that it may be my bike setups.

Any setup tips or base settings would be greatly appreciated

[KG_03]

If you play full sim with first person perspective the others are better than you just because they probably play 3rd person perspective what give them better view of the track and can have better line in the corners.

Anyway...as for settings it is not that hard.
First of all try setting the gear box for the track. If you miss the speed on the tight corners exit try to lower the ratio of each gear. It is just a matter of balance.
As for the suspension - the harder makes the bike more percise and faster reacting to the movements what is good for tracks with many chicanes or direction changes like in austin. But on the other way on the kerbs and track irregularities the bike can loose the grip or start to bounce. So depending on the track you need to notice if the track surface is quite good like on misano or sachsenring where I set high compression, on the tracks that have worse surface like catalunya when you need more reactive suspension.
The other thing is that when you start to brake to the corner the bike geometry changes to more agressive what makes it easier and faster to turn. On some tracks you need this but where arent many hard braking sharp corners like that some straights with hairpins on austin you may need to have smoother corner entrance so in that case it is better to rise the front of the bike. And now we come to suspension preload. With this you can lower or rise your bike. The higher bike lets you reach higher angle while turning but it also rise the whole bike what makes it unstable. The lower bike is more stable but do not allow you to turn with higher angles.
As for the spring stiffnes - the stiffer spring the faster the suspension reacts - with rebound, and it is harder to compress it. The bike is more reactive but if you do not set good rebound damping the bike will start to bounce on track irregulaties or during gear changing.

Next thing is handlebars. This is quite simple. Fork rake gives you bigger or smaller wheel base. The shorter bike - it turns faster and is more reactive but unstable on higher speeds. The longer the bike the more stable on higher speeds bur less reactive on the lower speeds. THe wheel trail also changes the lengh of the wheelbase but it also does another important thing. It makes the front wheel retuning faster or slower to the straight position what in consequence determines how fast the bike returns to it straight position. The smaller trait the bike returns slower to straight position and longer trail is the opposite.

The disc brakes are simple - disc brake nr 1 are carbon discs which are good for good and warm weather conditions as they need a temperature to work properly. On wet or cold weather they work very bad because then can not heat up to its working temperature. For the rear wheel it is useless to change to disc brakes nr 1. The nr 2 discs are the opposite - steel discs that heat up faster but when overheated they fade. At least that is in theory. Not sure how it was implemented in game.

And the last subject - tyres. The harder compound gives you more rigid tyre that is more stable on hard braking. It also lasts long for the race. Unfortunately it gives less grip. The soft is the opposite.

As you see you have to experiment on some tracks. For example to tracks that have fast long corners like Losail or Termas I set larger wheel base, lower the bike, rise the front of the bike, and set lower compression and rise the rebound damping of suspension. I want to have bike that is smooth on entrance, stable in the corner and do not overreactive to small movents.
On the tracks that have many fast direction changes, chicanes and have a good surface I need less percise cornering but the bike has to react fast. Then I rise the bike a litte, make the springs harder with less compression.

If something is not clear feel free to ask. If someone sees any mistakes please corret me..

[martin77]

very nice @KGal13!

[PointBlank]

Nice write up, very much appreciated.

There are a very few whome like to race onboard still, i'm one that does.

Anybody looking to race Onboard add me to you friends list and I wll set up a locked lobby for us.

The best racing to be had is onboard, trust me.

Also I think this is how i'ts done in the real world lol.

AKA Phil-speed

[KG_03]

Thank you ^_^

[ICCABOB1]

Originally posted by adestrike:

Just wondering if anyone has some tips for the bike setups, have played with the guided setup a bit, I can win consistently by numerous seconds on the highest difficulty yet go online and guys are lapping up to 3 seconds faster! I feel like I am on the limit at my fastest and really want to go faster and can only think that it may be my bike setups.

Any setup tips or base settings would be greatly appreciated

dont go faster.. feel faster.. you getting paid to be fastest? who cares about the stupid leaderboard... again they never gave any credit to the real players.. anyway go onboard full sim and get off this arcade culture... evolve.... thats the best tip ull ever get.. there are some of us who do this game right.... if you or anyone is interested is knowing my controller configuration for full sim no gamming assists ill post it (again).. all the thrill of real riding is there for ya .. you just have to have the guts to change it up and be a little slow for a wile.... havnt even used a track map in 4 years haha... and learning track without the cartoon line to tell you when to brake and throttle is the only way to go....any body do a 1.35.9 yet on the r1m in full sim yet? thats the time to beat on the real leaderboard jaja! cmon phil !!!

[SSorcereRR]

Your controller configuration is for r3tards. Shoving the throttle on an analogue stick? You must be having a stroke.
You just plain suck. I have seen players playing for the first time in onboard view play better than you.
And you are not a real player. You're just a player who suck.
The guy never asked for what view to play in, he asked for how to go faster. Your suckage is not going to make him go faster

[freddyfish55]

nice thx :D

[ICCABOB1]

Originally posted by SSorcereRR:

Your controller configuration is for r3tards. Shoving the throttle on an analogue stick? You must be having a stroke.
You just plain suck. I have seen players playing for the first time in onboard view play better than you.
And you are not a real player. You're just a player who suck.
The guy never asked for what view to play in, he asked for how to go faster. Your suckage is not going to make him go faster

faking goof...fake off ya jelous ♥♥♥♥.. you know nothing but how to play the arcade way this is why your piping under all my comments.. so insecure.. but we ve been through this before... want to do this again on this game? ok! lets expose fagbag to the gp crowd again... notice how he carefully said he saw other players in onboard better than me? lol you see .. this clown cant even come close to doing what i do so he just needs to pipe off...by the way i dont think anyone can do excactly what i do with this this franchise.. but i could be wrong.. some how the clown can tell online what view others are playing in and can judge them and compare them to me? hmmm i dont see an onboard icon over online players or in the lobbie? oh ya i forgot this clown is a hacker as well....

[ICCABOB1]

check out this video in the community vids on gp15 or on youtube... icca vs motogp#1 loser.. see for yourself what this clown is really doing with his borring life..eh buddy? hacking race games isnt enough he has to ruin other players online championships by joining lobbies with the intension of wreckking other players .. he dosne even race he just crashes (or tries to crash people out).. i dont know you want that clown on your friends list? whatever... but know this .. this guy is a fake and a lier and a goof .

[SSorcereRR]

Stop hijacking his thread, do you know how to go faster? no! then get the hell out of his thread.
No one gives a toss about you and your gameplay.

And damn right I see you in a lobby, you are going down. You are the Skum of this game and should be banned.

[AbsolutelyFumin]

Originally posted by KGal13:

If you play full sim with first person perspective the others are better than you just because they probably play 3rd person perspective what give them better view of the track and can have better line in the corners.

Anyway...as for settings it is not that hard.
First of all try setting the gear box for the track. If you miss the speed on the tight corners exit try to lower the ratio of each gear. It is just a matter of balance.
As for the suspension - the harder makes the bike more percise and faster reacting to the movements what is good for tracks with many chicanes or direction changes like in austin. But on the other way on the kerbs and track irregularities the bike can loose the grip or start to bounce. So depending on the track you need to notice if the track surface is quite good like on misano or sachsenring where I set high compression, on the tracks that have worse surface like catalunya when you need more reactive suspension.
The other thing is that when you start to brake to the corner the bike geometry changes to more agressive what makes it easier and faster to turn. On some tracks you need this but where arent many hard braking sharp corners like that some straights with hairpins on austin you may need to have smoother corner entrance so in that case it is better to rise the front of the bike. And now we come to suspension preload. With this you can lower or rise your bike. The higher bike lets you reach higher angle while turning but it also rise the whole bike what makes it unstable. The lower bike is more stable but do not allow you to turn with higher angles.
As for the spring stiffnes - the stiffer spring the faster the suspension reacts - with rebound, and it is harder to compress it. The bike is more reactive but if you do not set good rebound damping the bike will start to bounce on track irregulaties or during gear changing.

Next thing is handlebars. This is quite simple. Fork rake gives you bigger or smaller wheel base. The shorter bike - it turns faster and is more reactive but unstable on higher speeds. The longer the bike the more stable on higher speeds bur less reactive on the lower speeds. THe wheel trail also changes the lengh of the wheelbase but it also does another important thing. It makes the front wheel retuning faster or slower to the straight position what in consequence determines how fast the bike returns to it straight position. The smaller trait the bike returns slower to straight position and longer trail is the opposite.

The disc brakes are simple - disc brake nr 1 are carbon discs which are good for good and warm weather conditions as they need a temperature to work properly. On wet or cold weather they work very bad because then can not heat up to its working temperature. For the rear wheel it is useless to change to disc brakes nr 1. The nr 2 discs are the opposite - steel discs that heat up faster but when overheated they fade. At least that is in theory. Not sure how it was implemented in game.

And the last subject - tyres. The harder compound gives you more rigid tyre that is more stable on hard braking. It also lasts long for the race. Unfortunately it gives less grip. The soft is the opposite.

As you see you have to experiment on some tracks. For example to tracks that have fast long corners like Losail or Termas I set larger wheel base, lower the bike, rise the front of the bike, and set lower compression and rise the rebound damping of suspension. I want to have bike that is smooth on entrance, stable in the corner and do not overreactive to small movents.
On the tracks that have many fast direction changes, chicanes and have a good surface I need less percise cornering but the bike has to react fast. Then I rise the bike a litte, make the springs harder with less compression.

If something is not clear feel free to ask. If someone sees any mistakes please corret me..

Sorry i have been away for some time, just read this after all them months! thank you very much for taking the time to explain all of that - i will take this all in and see what changes i can make to improve, thanks again :)

[KG_03]

yw if you have any questions feel free to ask :-)