Wheel Stopped Working - Fanatec CSR 360 (SOLVED)

[sh0v0r]

[EDIT] Format Reinstall Fixed it... it was painful but I had to get my racing fix!

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My wheel no longer works in Dirt 4 or Dirt Rally, it shows up in windows as working correctly, all inputs respond in properties. It shows up as a Logitech G25 with the PC mode switch.

I have never had a problem with it before, played over 10 hrs of Dirt 4 allready and many more hours in Dirt Rally.

Incase anyone mentions Geforece Experience, I uninstalled it and the wheel is still not being detected in game.

[MatthewKai]

just incase you haven't already try restarting your pc. sometimes when my pc is on for ages and i go to use my CSR it doesn't work with pc mode. also try ps3 mode it'll detect as a logitech but should still work

[sh0v0r]

Originally posted by Psychotic Oz:

just incase you haven't already try restarting your pc. sometimes when my pc is on for ages and i go to use my CSR it doesn't work with pc mode. also try ps3 mode it'll detect as a logitech but should still work

Yeah I tried rebooting, the wheel functions correctlly in windows, I can press all the buttons and pedals and theyre working. It just doesn't get detected by Dirt 4 or Dirt Rally.

[Mystx24]

Copy the hardwaresettings.xml to desktop then delete the one in mydocuments/dirt4/hardwaresettings. Then boot game its worth a shot.

[MatthewKai]

you could also try reinstalling the fanatec CSR fireware and if that doesn't work then reflash the firemware on the wheel itself

[sh0v0r]

Originally posted by Mystx24:

Copy the hardwaresettings.xml to desktop then delete the one in mydocuments/dirt4/hardwaresettings. Then boot game its worth a shot.

No luck unfortunately.

[Mystx24]

Have you tried the firmware stuff? I use a fanatec csl elite wheelbase and pedals all is good here

[sh0v0r]

Originally posted by Mystx24:

Have you tried the firmware stuff? I use a fanatec csl elite wheelbase and pedals all is good here

Yeah, went through all that again today.

Latest firmware, installed older Logi 5.10 Profile software for G25 driver for PS3 mode.

PC mode works fine in the CSR software although I have never used that mode on PC and trying doesn't work either.

The controller is functioning correctly in the 'Setup USB Game Controllers' part of windows all the inputs are functioning just fine. The profiler software identifies it correctly.

But no game is aware the wheel is connected. I tried Asseto Corsa as well and it won't work there either.

Something has gone wrong between the system and the games requests to it for connected devices.

I'm contemplasting an OS format and reinstall but I'm not sure Im that desperate just to play a racing game when everything else is working fine.

[Peter Mathen]

Try an alternate USB port and cable if possible, USB is known for a lot of problems but mostly ignored.

[sh0v0r]

Format Reinstall Fixed it... it was painful but I had to get my racing fix!

[MΛKЯØП]

You mean you had to format your whole drive?

[sh0v0r]

Originally posted by feesees4gzus:

You mean you had to format your whole drive?

Yes, complete Windows 10 reinstall because nothing I tried would work. This ensured that I had only the basics installed. Worked first go, even with all the latest Logitech Game Software, NV GFE Share enabled.

Unfortunately last night the Power Supply in my Fanatec Wheel died while playing Forza Motorspot 7!

What are the odds?

I'm hoping Fanatec Australia can send me a new one. The product is discontinued so I might have to try my luck with an after market brand PSU.

[CarDr]

The power supply is a common unit for lap tops and other devices, it was not made special for Fanatec. The CSR (non elite) uses a 24v-dc 2.5amp output. Do a web search on the model numbers on the label, or take it in to a computer repair shop. The end connector must match size and polarity (neg on outside). You can test the old one with a voltmeter.

[sh0v0r]

Originally posted by CarDr:

The power supply is a common unit for lap tops and other devices, it was not made special for Fanatec. The CSR (non elite) uses a 24v-dc 2.5amp output. Do a web search on the model numbers on the label, or take it in to a computer repair shop. The end connector must match size and polarity (neg on outside). You can test the old one with a voltmeter.

Cheers!

[CarDr]

I remember an odd problem reported years ago regarding a certain brand being used, and it may had been supplied by Fanatec (they switched suppliers a few times).

The power supply featured an internal power-saver mode. If the unit did not see a load after a certain time period (minutes), it would shut off the output to save energy. When a proper load was seen, it would return to full power. The problem was the CSR would not produce enough load with the power-on button as it require full power to activate the CSR circuit board to produce the required load.

If you plugged the PS into the wall and turned the wheel on before the timer kicked in, you would not see a problem. If you waited too long or kept the PS plugged into the wall all the time, you would see the problem- acting like a dead PS.

IIRC this was in the old ‘Thomas’s blog Porsche 911 wheel turbo’ forum. The link I have redirects to the new Fanatec site. I’m almost sure it was a Fanatec flub. They switched suppliers again when the problem was identified, and sent replacements to all that complained. Be sure to test for this with your old and new unit.