Found my favorite Moza R5 FFB Settings

[Hypz0r]

Been tinkering for some time to get a consistent, across surfaces, great feeling on the steering wheel.
I believe I have this now, my times have improved, the car is predictable and the change of FFB when moving across tarmac, gravel and snow is believable and accurate.

In game

90 - Gain
3 - Minimum force (found this counter-intuitive as in theory FFB is sharper with this on 0, but try it, it helped me)
30 - Damper

Moza pit

(from exported preset .json file //you can copy this in your exported preset using any text editor, then re-import it, or just read it and manually adjust your settings as the tags are self-explanatory)

 "deviceParams": {
        "constForceExtraMode": 0,
        "equalizerGain1": 110,
        "equalizerGain2": 120,
        "equalizerGain3": 100,
        "equalizerGain4": 70,
        "equalizerGain5": 70,
        "equalizerGain6": 20,
        "forceFeedbackMaping": "\u0000\u0000\u0014\u0014((<<PP\u0000d",
        "gameForceFeedbackFilter": 50,
        "gameForceFeedbackReversal": false,
        "gameForceFeedbackStrength": 70,
        "gearJoltLevel": 2,
        "initialSpeedDependentDamping": 0,
        "maximumGameSteeringAngle": 270,
        "maximumSteeringAngle": 270,
        "maximumSteeringSpeed": 160,
        "maximumTorque": 100,
        "mechanicalDamper": 10,
        "mechanicalFriction": 30,
        "mechanicalSpringStrength": 0,
        "naturalInertiaV2": 100,
        "safeDrivingEnabled": false,
        "safeDrivingMode": 2,
        "setGameDampingValue": 50,
        "setGameFrictionValue": 50,
        "setGameInertiaValue": 50,
        "setGameSpringValue": 100,
        "softLimitGameForceStrength": 0,
        "softLimitStiffness": 100,
        "softLimitStrength": 100,
        "speedDependentDamping": 0,
        "version": 2
    },

To see if you could benefit from these settings, I briefly explain the main issue I had before finding this settings:
adjusting FFB for realistic feel of wheel stiffness and car weight transfers effects made tarmac bumps way too unrealistically strong, while correcting the tarmac bumps made the gravel FFB too light... but I did not want to adjust settings every time I changed road surfaces.

Notes

I use 540° - adjust as needed
Safe Driving OFF - Moza option to not injure you in case of crash with strong FFB, this one, if enabled, can dampen the effects of FFB and should be OFF, but be cautious!

[GreenYogi]

thx for sharing mate. will try these with the R3.

EDIT: U mentioned using 540° but in the .json file u got 270° steering angle. That can't be right.

[Petr707]

Hypzor:
Of course you can drive however you want - it's just your business. But your settings make no sense or correspond to reality.
Maximum steering angle - 270 degree ?? What nonsense is this? These are not F1. The cars here have an angle range from 480 to about 1080 degrees (some old models even more).
Set the angle range to 1080 in the pithouse and 1080 in the game - then each car will have its own correct angles. If 1080 is too much for home driving, you can set it to 900 - 900, for example. Then cars with smaller angles will have their correct settings and cars with larger angles will be limited to 900 degrees. 270 is stupid in rally.
You have a pretty weak steering wheel and Game FFB Intesity in Pithouse is only at 70% and in the game you have FFB at 90%. This must be cutting off the range on your weak wheelbase.
In Pithouse always set the FFB power to 100% and set the intensity of the power you like to drive in the game. This way you will not experience FFB power cuts. With such a weak steering wheel, this is important. I also recommend turning off all Dampers, Springs and Filters in Pithouse. They are artificially added resistances that overlap the FFB data from the game.
FFB Equalizer - all on 100.

[kf543]

Moza Pithouse software comes with official AC Rally present, since recent update (last week).

[Hypz0r]

Originally posted by Petr707:

Hypzor:
Maximum steering angle - 270 degree ?? What nonsense is this?

I know right? I specified in the post that I use 540° but probably you did not read it, in any case the moza export profile function saves it at 270°, my understanding is that moza pit saves it as 270° per side.
With that said I know you are right concerning 1080° and leaving ingame limit adjustment via soft limit function to get it simulated correctly per car, but I just prefer to leave it to 540° always. Still not relevant for FFB topic though.

Originally posted by Petr707:

You have a pretty weak steering wheel and Game FFB Intesity in Pithouse is only at 70% and in the game you have FFB at 90%. This must be cutting off the range on your weak wheelbase.
In Pithouse always set the FFB power to 100% and set the intensity of the power you like to drive in the game. This way you will not experience FFB power cuts. With such a weak steering wheel, this is important. I also recommend turning off all Dampers, Springs and Filters in Pithouse. They are artificially added resistances that overlap the FFB data from the game.
FFB Equalizer - all on 100.

I'll experiment more by setting Moza pit to 100 and lowering ingame accordingly to verify the "power cuts" you mention, but to be frank I quite like in rallying a steering wheel that is crisp, makes me feel all the forces sharply, but is not too hard that I need to hold it for dear life and requires lots of strength to drive.

Particularly when driving modern rally cars that are typically steered easily with one hand by rally driver as you can see in lots and lots of real life videos, with drivers stating that the car needs to be easy to drive.

In a recent comparison of RBR vs ACR on youtube by a rally driver the first comment is "this steering is too hard", which we know is just how people configure it most of the time.

Originally posted by kf543:

Moza Pithouse software comes with official AC Rally present, since recent update (last week).

Indeed there is and I tried it, it also tells you to set ingame force to 200, the steering is way too strong for a modern rally car and it gets the feeling of the "FFB driving the car".

Certainly it is personal :)

[spliff]

fanatec DD here. ffb to 160, everything else off. no artificial forces for me.

[Petr707]

Originally posted by Hypzor:

I'll experiment more by setting Moza pit to 100 and lowering ingame accordingly to verify the "power cuts" you mention, but to be frank I quite like in rallying a steering wheel that is crisp, makes me feel all the forces sharply, but is not too hard that I need to hold it for dear life and requires lots of strength to drive.

Particularly when driving modern rally cars that are typically steered easily with one hand by rally driver as you can see in lots and lots of real life videos, with drivers stating that the car needs to be easy to drive.

You don't understand me. I'm not telling you to have the FFB set so strong that it will be difficult to drive. I'm telling you not to limit the power in the pothouse, but in the game. There, set the power you need. I also drive with a light steering wheel. I've been driving rally for 20 years :-) Yes, a light steering wheel is needed for Rally so that you can make quick corrections. But you have to feel the forces you need to feel there. Feel free to do it your way - I'm just trying to give you advice. If you only have 5.5 Nm and in Pithouse you immediately reduce it to 70%, then you suddenly have only 3.8 Nm. And that greatly increases the probability of cutting the FFB range.
I have a Moza R12 and in Pithouse I also have 100%, but I set the power directly in the game as I need.

[Sobol]

Petr707 is right here. In pithouse, FFB and Torque should be at 100% all the time. The only place where you want to make adjustments is the game itself. In game, FFB gain can go up to 115 and that will give you 5.1Nm. If you go over that, it will start clipping. I did test that. Anyway, I have a guide for R5 you may have a look and give some thoughts. Regards.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3606129714

[Sobol]

Originally posted by kf543:

Moza Pithouse software comes with official AC Rally present, since recent update (last week).

And it's not bad. But with my preset I'm 2–3 sec faster. Also, from time to time with the official preset, I was loosing car control for no reason. But it's good to start with.

[Knutspeed]

Another R5 newbie here. I sort of had things figured out in v0.1, but am just getting to grips with the update. I only drive the Alfa GTA and Mini "seriously". Found that I had to increase the steering angle a lot for 0.2, otherwise the cars would be way too nervous, and catching oversteer was difficult. So just earlier today, I set up separate profiles in Pithouse for these two cars, and swap profile + adjust in-game whenever I switch cars. I set the same angles as described in the "history" section in the garage.

So - is this not necessary? I was hoping that the next update would bring an option to save settings per car in-game. Both FBB/Inputs and camera settings.

[Petr707]

Originally posted by Knutspeed:

Another R5 newbie here. I sort of had things figured out in v0.1, but am just getting to grips with the update. I only drive the Alfa GTA and Mini "seriously". Found that I had to increase the steering angle a lot for 0.2, otherwise the cars would be way too nervous, and catching oversteer was difficult. So just earlier today, I set up separate profiles in Pithouse for these two cars, and swap profile + adjust in-game whenever I switch cars. I set the same angles as described in the "history" section in the garage.

So - is this not necessary? I was hoping that the next update would bring an option to save settings per car in-game. Both FBB/Inputs and camera settings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN2iSKddVj8

[Petr707]

I personally recommend turning off all filters and dampers in Moza Pithouse. They are all artificial forces that add another unnecessary layer to the pure data about the car's behavior from the game. Thanks to this, you feel less what the car is actually doing and it is harder to catch the beginning of a skid in time and work correctly with the weight of the car. If you are driving a car at the limit, it is very important to immediately feel what is happening to the car.
I have a Moza R12 but the principle is the same on the R5. Thanks to the greater force, I only have a greater dynamic range for FFB and therefore more details, but the basis is the same.
Game FFB Intensity - always 100% and adjust the force in the FFB game settings.
Maximum Wheel Speed ​​100%
In the Advanced Settings window, I have everything turned off. These are all artificial dampers and filters that overlap the FFB from the game.
In the FFB Effect Equalizer window - set everything to 100%
FFB Curve - Linear
With this setting, you have pure data from the game about the car's behavior on the steering wheel.

On asphalt this works very well. The best FFb in the game are the stages in Alsace - Saverne. Valle de Munster has very little information from penumatik.
FFB on Gravel is currently unsuccessful in the game and no damper or filter in the Pithouse settings will help.

I will not discuss the steering angle here - I have it set to maximum in Pithouse and in the game. This way I have the right angle on every car, I don't have softlock (which the game doesn't have yet), but when you go all the way with the steering wheel ...

[Knutspeed]

Originally posted by Petr707:

I personally recommend turning off all filters and dampers in Moza Pithouse. They are all artificial forces that add another unnecessary layer to the pure data about the car's behavior from the game. Thanks to this, you feel less what the car is actually doing and it is harder to catch the beginning of a skid in time and work correctly with the weight of the car. If you are driving a car at the limit, it is very important to immediately feel what is happening to the car.

Thank you. I'm new coming from a Logi G295, have been running iRacing for a few years and upgraded because ACR. I'll give this a go - note, I'm after replicating the experience of driving these cars, not to "cheat" my way to any fast times. So I guess the same will apply to iRacing.

[Knutspeed]

OK, so I tried this. Yes, it does help, but it does bring more of the "dead zone" feeling around the center. I also had to drop gain below 100 to try and replicate the GTA I'm racing IRL. I feel that the steering is vague, there isn't much happening around the centre - car doesn't respond. But I'll keep at it and try to learn & understand:)

It's still a bit of a mind twirl. In real life, the Alfa is really heavy on the wheel when moving slow, then gets delightfully nimble when speed picks up.