Sanwa joystick freaking out, I need help please!

[Pattrone]

Ive got no replacement, let me explain the issue.

All 4 switches work as they should, sometimes it struggles to read a d/f input, F works fine, D works fine too, it looks like as if there is something blocking the edge (square gate) and you can see in the input history that the inputs are freaking out, also when I hold down d/f it sometimes takes 3 seconds for it to recognise d/f instead of F. When I direct the joystich d/f it should read as a single d/f when im holding it but instead it decides to freak out (when I am simply holding it in place) and floods the input history with F, D and D/F inputs and you cant do a single clean move that requires a d/f.

this is generally a problem with almost all diagonal diections - u/f, d/f, d/b, u/b.
but d/f is the most frequent.

I have took everything apart and clicked all switches individually and together to simulate diagonal inputs, everything works perfectly fine, I put the gate back on and it decides to work for 30 min or so and it starts freaking out again.

I've been thinking of sanding down the edges to allow movement further in to the edge
been thinking of buying a new gate
and been thinking of buying a new sanwa stick all together (I abused it so much due to me being angry about it freaking out, surprisingly it survived)

I'm just wondering if anyone had a similar issue, or if anyone has any ideas they could share to try and fix this issue?

Arcade stick: Razer panthera EVO

And before you say, yes, I can hit diagonal inputs cleanly, I wouldnt be making this post if it was just me being ♥♥♥♥ with execution. I've been testing for the past few days and its hard to tell what the issue is because its got its good days and bad days, it will never stay broken or stay fixed.

[SEATEK The_LEFTY]

There are many possibilities as to why your lever is doing this.

Answer me a few questions please:

how many hours have you been on the stick and switches?

Have any of the switches ever been removed or replaced or readjusted?

Is the Panthera still a stock board? (There have been stories around the FGC that the Panthera has flaky boards and a replacement was needed to fix missed inputs)

Are you using a stock actuator in the Sanwa?

What spring tension are you using?

Has the stick ever been removed from the Panthera?

Some of these questions relate to the switches being properly aligned in the housing as well as aligned to the "playfield" (which is the area where you set your hands) if it is not square at 90 degrees it can affect your d/fs.

Do you have pets? Hair can get inside the switch housings and clog them.

[SEATEK The_LEFTY]

It sounds like a problem board or misalignment / wear on the switches. Most switches are tested for thousands or millions of hours- but they are normally not tested for mechanical strength or heavy use (if you are rough with them they wear out faster). If you have had the stick for a while, it might need a refurbishment or rebuild.

Another possibility might be a The connection on the board or on the connection cable to your PC could also be wearing out.

Even a loose clip connection from the gate might cause the switches to move.

True testing would be to order a new Sanwa JLF and replace it and test for any changes.

[Pattrone]

Originally posted by SEATEK The_LEFTY:

There are many possibilities as to why your lever is doing this.

Answer me a few questions please:

how many hours have you been on the stick and switches?

Have any of the switches ever been removed or replaced or readjusted?

Is the Panthera still a stock board? (There have been stories around the FGC that the Panthera has flaky boards and a replacement was needed to fix missed inputs)

Are you using a stock actuator in the Sanwa?

What spring tension are you using?

Has the stick ever been removed from the Panthera?

Some of these questions relate to the switches being properly aligned in the housing as well as aligned to the "playfield" (which is the area where you set your hands) if it is not square at 90 degrees it can affect your d/fs.

Do you have pets? Hair can get inside the switch housings and clog them.

1.
300hrs on the stick myself, got it from CEX so not sure if it had more, came in original boxing and looking fresh so it could be brand new when I got it.

2. Looks all stock, everything has "warranty" safety so I doubt it has been messed with. Only thing I removed was the square gate and the switches but that was only after I started getting these problems.

3. No clue, pretty sure its all stock

4.yes, I believe its a stock actuator. I havent messed with anything like that.

5. no clue, never messed around with the spring so I presume stock.

6. Still has warranty safety so I presume not. At least I never removed it.

7. I have 2 pets yes, one is a yorkie so no hair related trouble there but the other is a dane so she sheds a lot. I just cleaned it and was fine for 1-2 hours until now when occasionally it would freak out.

[SEATEK The_LEFTY]

If you have abused it, you probably need a new one.
You can get a replacement one with the gate for around $25.

I would check your connections on the board leading to the switches, making sure none of the wires are pinched or crushed under anything.

Also check within windows and see if you have more than one USB device that could be misidentified as a controller for tekken installed. If you plug in some of the sticks out there multiple times the PC, Tekken or Steam can sometime install the device's drivers twice- This can make directions wonky.

Check to be sure all of the switches are perfectly even and held down tightly when the gate locks over them. If they move even a little during use (or vibration) they can shift slightly and make the diagonals move.

You can also try a larger or smaller actuator. They are cheap ($5-$10 for aluminum) Larger will make your dead zone reduced and make neutral smaller. A smaller actuator will make a larger deadzone and make a return to neutral larger. These can also help with diagonals. But honestly, for the most accurate testing and repair you should probably buy a new JLF and maybe an actuator (for testing).

The final area that might be giving you problems is the board in the fightstick itself. I thought they used a version of the brooks fighting board in the newer ones, but I dont remember. YOu might want to research if anyone else has these similar "ghost diagonals" on the Shoryuken.com fightstick forums. Or maybe ask there for further diagnosis or testing. Let me know what you find.