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Have you tried using the graphics card's utility to create the custom resolution? In nVidia control panel, this is under "Change Resolution"->Customize, then check "Enable resolutions not exposed by the display". The displayed resolution is actualy scaled to fit the monitor (as long as you dont mess with the timings) ... this was old school super-sampling before it was even a thing.
CRU is useful if you want to trick the driver (and there are cases for that)... but if you don't need to, it's usually been better for me to go native and let the driver do it's thing.
Other thing to try would be to stick with a 16:9 scale, but I would try the graphics driver first if you really want that res. Out of curiosity, why that resolution? Are you trying to match your headset? If so... don't sweat it. It's not a 1:1 deal with vr, and even less so if you're generating half-sbs. Just set res as high as you can while maintaining frames. Games are mostly designed for 16:9 nowadays anyway, and don't like odd resolutions from what I've seen.
If I use a double horizontal resolution it will 16:9 not 32:9 because the half sbs cuts it in half. True 3840x1080 would be 16:9 after enabling SuperDepth3D.
I got pretty bad motion sickness trying to adjust depth3d settings. I wish the made depth (distance between 2 cameras) and convergance (the angle of the 2 cameras and what distance they cross. How distance an object should look and when it should pop in) easier to adjust. Convergence could just be a degree.
How do you adjust your settings?
I get what you're saying with the full SBS. Haven't tried that yet with this new headset. My old one used moonlight/gamestream, so I was pretty much stuck with 1080p streams. It was also limited to SBS, so I forgot to even consider Top And Bottom (Over-Under). Tried that earlier and it does look a little better than SBS (My display is also 2880x1600, Odyssey+).
At the moment, in Virtual Desktop I have the Screen Distance minimized to 0.2m, and the Screen Size maxed to 360o. This helps anything in 3D pop-out, but also shrinks it a bit. I don't mind it though, I love the depth. If it hurts your eyes, bump up the distance until you're comfortable. Then I position the screen so that the vertical "almost" fills my view for games. So then I have to look to the sides to see them. Also have the Screen Curve set to 23%. For movies I fill the horizontal to my view, and lower the curve.
The most important part in SuperDepth is to fnd the right depth map for your game... check the readme for the version you're using to see which one to use. There's a toggle in Reshade to show you the depth map in use. If it's all one color, or there's not a lot of variation, try a different map. There's also multiple versions of SuperDepth3D, but they're all in the github archive you download for the latest. 1.9.5 is the one I'm using, as it already had a map for AC-Unity.
Then to adjust 3D, start small and move slow. Minimize the ReShade GUI as much as you can. If you use the keyboard to select the depth, then hold shift (or maybe ctrl) and use the arrows to increment the depth slowly, you should see it pop. If you go too deep, you'll get too much distortion. I'm using 14 in AC. I also shift the perspective a little bit negative (like -10). The rest I pretty much left on defaults, but I did set disocclusion to radial.
You can install Windows 10 and just not activate it... I think it gives you like a thousand boots before it starts to really lock anything. You just get a watermark when not in fullscreen, and you can't customize the background. You can even have multiple versions installed at the same time. I currently have 1703 and 1809 installed. I even have 2 legit pro licences... just haven't decided if I want to keep this motherboard (for the past 6 months), and didn't want to go through the hassle if I don't.
Just clear a 50GB partition, and install it there beside your current version. It'll set up the boot menu for you to pick which to load. Load only essential programs onto the OS drive, and install the others elsewhere. When the installer asks for a key, theres an option that says something like you don't have one, or do it later, then it lets you choose the version to install. Choose Pro, install your drivers and updates, then create a backup image. Save all driver installation files in an archive in case you need to do it again later (with 1903?).
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-create-windows-10-usb-bootable-media-uefi-support
https://www.howtogeek.com/214477/how-to-dual-boot-two-or-more-versions-of-windows/
Edit: Oh! If you install 1809, download your display driver before, and install it BEFORE connecting to the internet the first time. Some new driver model causing conflicts... this solves it for now.