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Your gameplay will consist of building whatever you feel like, farming crops, raising animals, fighting things in the world...that's about it. Most players seem to spend a lot of time grinding skills, like in an MMO. Different servers have different mods and multipliers to XP and crafting speeds, for different experiences. Be warned, the unmodded game is mostly just watching bars slowly fill, I don't recommend it.
The world slowly progresses through seasons over a couple of real life months, complete with snow in winter and leaves in the fall, seasonal harvests of certain crops, etc. I think if you host your own server and close it when you're done playing, this process would be paused, but you could fast-forward it with commands.
Buildings slowly decay unless they are on a "deed", which in the context of Wurm Unlimited is pretty much "wherever you want and as much land as you want". Large servers might monetize deed upkeep on large properties, but if you run a server or are playing on a friend's, it can just be free and unlimited.