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The first step is to ignore all stats and look to see if the armor (after equipping it) covers the areas that you're going to be struck often. For example, if you have a large shield equipped then it's less likely for your front chest region to be struck as often so I'd consider your exposed areas to be a higher priority for armor (legs, head, etc.).
To figure out which items overlap each other you must experiment by equipping the items and see what items are removed. If an item isn't removed then it is overlapping whatever other armor pieces it is visually covering (there are about a thousand or so 'virtual slots' for equipping armor so I can't go over them all here).
Next try to balance all types of protection (impact, slash, crush, pierce) for areas that are likely to be struck often. For example, if you're wearing plate armor which offers great slashing protection then it's more important to wear a padded gambeson underneath plate rather than chain since a gambeson offers better crush/impact resistance while chain offers mostly slashing protection (which is somewhat redundant with plate). Of course wearing all three will offer the most protection but it may not be worth doing so if it encumbers your movement (how much armor you can wear before becoming encumbered depends on whether or not you've trained the "manoeuvering in armor" skills).