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Its running around interacting with the environment.
Learning about the history of the world thru the randomly generated sultan histories (and believe me, you can get some really funny/cool stuff), exploring ruins, lairs, and whatnot, and most of all being entertained by what the random generator comes up with (some of my favorites Ive seen - a tombstone of a guy who died swallowing a mark III thermal grenade. a village with an edict against the act of procreation, a sultan cult led by a sapient turret, a village with the walls made of "human child skin", dominating (mindswapping) random creatures, to control them and all their wild abilities, legendary glowcrow and baboon names, when a named NPC generates as a random weep, and other general sheer insanity). Oh yeah, and doing quests too, both the main line (which is very weird and interesting) and the random villages quests (theres some odd ones, like "Go sit on this randomly named chair in this legendary (creature) we all worship's lair." They're pretty entertaining
I have probably 400 actual played hours in this game, and Ive not gotten anywhere near the end of the main quest line, nor have I ever seen some of the end-game areas. And Ive never run out of things to do and see - the world's just so insane.
I will say, I was born in the early 80s and grew up in an era of text, simplepixel graphics, and the first roguelikes, so I dont rely on graphics to tell the story. My imagination comes up with a crazier image than graphics could ever show, and a few lines of text describing what Im looking at (the descriptions of everything is awesome) is enough to create stories of *why* theres a sapient turret leading a sultan cult.
But not everyone's that way. No insult, some people are just more visual, and prefer images to spur their imagination over text or like to experience an already crafted story over creating their own based on disparate parts. Qud may not be for those types though. The graphics are (well fitting but simple) stylized tiles, and 90% of the game is procedurally generated.
Hope that helps you decide if CoQ sounds like something youd be interested in.
I enjoy the few quests that are in the game, but they're not what the game is about. It's a roguelike, so the core of the game is about exploring the randomness and pushing deeper and deeper for harder and harder challenges with crazier rewards. The stuff you get and see can be really nutty!