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In ATS in the wheel settings, set the sensitivity to 100% (full right) and the non-linearity 0% (full left)
The FFB sliders should be set to around 75% except the engine and collisions which should be set to minimum and the terrain which should be set to about 10%.
I have said 75% but you can adjust these to your own liking, more if you want a bit more feel or less if you find it too much. Although, the Logitech wheels do not have a lot of FFB so perhaps even 80% would probably be ok, it is a personal thing.
Also, just to add, make sure your wheel is plugged into a USB2 Port and not a USB3 Port or a shared USB Hub. Just friendly advice.
I do like having the default wheel centering on maybe 10% in the Logitech profiler...? I can't recall the numeber, but just enough to give the wheel a very slight pull to make it feel like heavy power steering.
Options - Controls
It should work for any 900 degree wheel if the control panel for your wheel is left at default settings.
Why USB 2?
Because that is the recommendation direct from Logitech.
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It introduces a non-linear input-to-output transfer-characteristic to the steering control. Unless you have a wheel that can rotate through around 1980 degrees lock-to-lock (class-8 trucks typically have around 5.5 turns lock-to-lock) then you're going to need to have some non-linearity dialed in to give you a reasonable steering ratio through the centre travel while still being able to have the wheels go to full lock at the extents of travel.
If you don't use any non-linearity, then your steering ratio will be way too low over the full travel, like sports-car low.
Many people can use USB 3 without problems but some people have problems running their wheels using USB 3 ports. In fact many computers don't have USB 2 ports and in that case they have no choice but to use USB 3 ports. If the wheel works without problem then that is fine but I will always recommend what Logitech and Thrustmaster both recommend which is plugging the wheel Into a USB 2 port.
You say that as if it's somehow relevant. Whenever this topic comes up and the recommendations are quoted, there's always *someone* with a post similar to yours. If you have your unit plugged into a USB3 port and it works fine, then that recommendation is obviously *not for you* :).
The hardware was designed for the USB2 standard, that's why the manufacturer recommends the units be plugged into USB2 standard interfaces *for troubleshooting people with problematic units*.
The manufacturers also recommend plugging the units directly into the native ports, rather than hubs or other 3rd party host interfaces - NOT because it shouldn't work but just simply to eliminate unnecessary hardware from the troubleshooting chain. This is basic methodology 101.
If you're not having any issues with your own particular setup(s) then clearly the recommendations are not directed at you and your setup(s).
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I've quoted your post here for reference, not to criticise you specifically and certainly not personally.