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Clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out.
Clutch in, wait until revs match the next gear, shift into gear, clutch out.
This is called double clutching and is necessary in non-synchromesh transmissions.
Just remember, since there is no synchromesh, you have to be the one to match the RPM to the gear. And you will grind gears. A lot.
For downshifting its a little different. Drop your rpms down to around 1100 , clutch and take out of gear, reve engine up to 1600 rpm, and then clutch, shift.
Lower gears (1-3) are harder to shift down in since your speeds will be getting too low.
Hills also change things up. Going downhill when shifting up will take less rpms since you will be gaining speed going down a hill.
Downshifting up hill will require you to bump your rpms up a little before (like 1300 maybe) because you are losing speed quicker than normal.
The rpm levels were what we were taught in school but very depending on what type of truck and transmission you have. But 500 rpms difference when shifting is a good rule of thumb.
I have ran 10 speed and 13 speed ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ in ats and those rpms work good
Still a good tutorial though :)
(edit: grammar)
I try to double clutch (to respect the Eaton Fuller recommandation for those who reply floating gear is what real trucker do), so I activate H-Shifter, Advanced and the g_hshifter_syncronized 0.
I have no problem when the gearbox is sync but with the unsync option, I rarely manage to shift gear and not without some grinding. The worst is when the gear didn't pass I don't know what I should do to put again a gear.
Also It's normal when the clutch is full down (the game, I think, didn't yet implement clutch brake) and I change gear, it's start to grind the gearbox ? The gear should not be put in unless I release the clutch ?
I try to follow the indication of Max0mizer and some video about it.
Like clutch in neutral at 1600, clutch next gear up when 1200 and push in neutral at 1100, acceleration to 1600, clutch nex gear down. Most of the time, the gear don't pass and I stay in neutral with the gearbox grinding all it can.
So I wonder if double clutch really work in 1.36 and I don't find any indication when gear didn't pass.
Thanks for your help.
Yes, of course it really works.
--
Further to Max0miser above,
When you're using an unfamiliar gearbox for the first time, spend a bit of time to learn how far apart (in RPM) the gears are through the full set. Easiest way to start is to move off in 1st gear, rev up to the mid-range RPM (~1500 for most engines) then, without clutch, shift into the next gear slot and let the accelerator off. Note how far the RPM falls before the gear falls into the hole... repeat for the remaining gears.
That will let you know where your gaps are so you can get your de-clutch timing right when it comes to actually doing the double de-clutch shifts... or when to throw the gear-lever into the hole when you're float shifting.
If you miss a gear, rev the engine all the way to the governor, drop the gear-lever into the gear you just shifted FROM while letting off the accelerator. Stay off the clutch and the gear will eventually fall in.
As a practical example, the Eaton-Fuller 13 and 18 speed boxes will have ~400 RPM gap between whole gears, with ~200 RPM gap between split gears throughout the whole gear set.
--
When you have a good idea of the gaps you're aiming for, just practice your heart out and you'll eventually start hitting the shifts. Just remember that you'll need to anticipate your target RPM a certain amount due to input lag as well as road speed delta. You'll figure that out with practice and experience.
After a while you'll start to get a feel for how to vary your timing and technique in response to the road (ie, climbs & descents).
--
As for the actual double de-clutching... Once you're at your shift RPM, you need to de-clutch to unload the box and pull the shifter out of gear, then let the clutch back out to re-engage the input shaft and wait (it won't take long) for the RPM to fall to just above your target RPM - Then de-clutch again to float the input shaft and then push the shifter into gear.
If it doesn't go in (grinds), pull the shifter back out and without using the clutch rev the engine back up to just above your original target RPM and push the shifter into the slot then let off the accelerator until it engages... and you're on your way.
This is all for upshifts. Downshifts are obviously the (well, almost) reverse.
--
As for grinding... you'll likely never hit perfect shifts every single time, even with plenty of experience. It's always going to be at least a little bit hit-&-miss, you'll likely always catch gear-teeth now and then.
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No, the gear should be going in WHILE you have the clutch down. If it's grinding then it just means you've missed the shift. You really have to hit the hole at just the right RPM, there's a little bit of leeway but it's still pretty tight.
I'will give another try. I understand better and it's start to work for me. Need more pratice, right now I probably destroy the gearbox in now time :) .
By the way, I found this video which show how shifter work. It only lack the clutch action but to what I known/understand the clutch will disconnect the input shaft of the engine (that's probably why there is less risk to double clutch than floating)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjJwC211HgU