Problems setting up G920 pedals

[marinfrs]

Im having issues getting my pedals set up right. During the initial set up I set it for sequential gearing and then went into the wizard to set the steering controls. It listed the clutch as the accelerator and the accelerator as brake. I was able to change those and both pedals registered when I pushed them. Now trying to drive, I can indeed brake.. but the accelerator doesn't do anything, rather shifting into gear starts the truck moving and I can adjust speed by shifting. Getting into 18th means screaming down the freeway at 75 plus and the actual cruise control lights up but does nothing. I must have something set wrong ingame, the pedals work fine in other driving games. Thanks for any help!

[Asigion]

Go back through the wizard and set it up for real automatic and see if that works.

[Leetpandaz]

After usong the wizrd go into the seperate controls section and make sure the pedals are mapped correctly and check the "inverted/centred" setting

[marinfrs]

Well I think I see the problem, but I dont know how to fix it. The yellow indicating line is constantly full on the accelerator pad, so the game is seeing the acc pedal floored all the time. The steering and brake yellow lines are off until I use them and they are working. I can reset the controls outside of the wizard, and they all show normal operation but back in the truck its the same. accel is pegged and I can only control speed by braking or shifting. I guess reinstalling the game may do something? The Logitech profiler doenst offer any control other than combining the brake and accel.

[Asigion]

I suggest you go to the Logitech site and install/reinstall the latest firmware and software for your wheel. Make sure your wheel is plugged into a USB2 port directly on your computer and not a USB3 port or a shared USB-hub. Leave the settings in the Logitech control panel as default and the go back through the wizard.

The settings for your wheel are:

Steering sensitivity = 100% (full right)
Non-linearity = 0% (full left)

Steering = Centred
Accelerator = Inverted
Brake = Inverted

[Fury6]

Originally posted by marinfrs:

[...] The Logitech profiler doenst offer any control other than combining the brake and accel.

Wut!? The Profiler has all kinds of controls for all the axes except the clutch: Axis and zone assignments, sensitivity, deadzone, saturation, axis inversion (click on a pedal either in the controller image, or on the repsective label in the Profiler).

Having said that I don't think the solution lies with any of those settings anyway :/ Just make sure you have the 'Report Combined Pedals' setting UNchecked to get the most out of the hardware (the hardware has two indepenant control axes for these but allows them to be combined for older games that can't support this).
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[edit]

Originally posted by Willy.J.K:

[...]
The settings for your wheel are:

Steering sensitivity = 100% (full right)
Non-linearity = 0% (full left)

These two are both subjective, Willy.

In my own settings I prefer to have about somewhere between 1/4-1/3 of non-linearity. Due to the limited 900/1080 (the most common wheels in this market) degree steering angle the steering ratio is right down around average sports car values. Dialing in a good measure of N/L helps alleviate that problem.

I also dial out a good measure of sensitivity (maybe about 1/2) as that helps smooth it all out even a bit more - the lower N/L I use, the lower I set the sensitivity.

The OP really needs to dial those two adjustments to his own preferences.

[MattFarmzFS22]

I just changed over to full manual Eaton Fuller 18 Speed and none of my pedals worked correctly. I found a post (and followed the advice there). You need to go to the key settings page and make sure none of the pedals are assigned to anything there. Basically what happens is, the Controller Wizard and the Key Settings will both be using/have the pedals assigned at the same time, and they conflict. In the Logitech Software, Unassign all the pedals to Default. Fixed mine and allowed me to set up the Range-Splitter configuration. BTW, mine is the Driving Force Shiffter with a G29. Now everything works perfectly. Good Luck

[Fury6]

I forgot to include in the above:

Before you do anything, delete the 'controls.sii' file to have the game regenerate it from it's internal template and then re-run the control wizard...

[MonkeyGamesVR]

Originally posted by Fury6:

I forgot to include in the above:

Before you do anything, delete the 'controls.sii' file to have the game regenerate it from it's internal template and then re-run the control wizard...

Where is this file into?

[Asigion]

Originally posted by Fury6:

Originally posted by Willy.J.K:

[...]
The settings for your wheel are:

Steering sensitivity = 100% (full right)
Non-linearity = 0% (full left)

These two are both subjective, Willy.

In my own settings I prefer to have about somewhere between 1/4-1/3 of non-linearity. Due to the limited 900/1080 (the most common wheels in this market) degree steering angle the steering ratio is right down around average sports car values. Dialing in a good measure of N/L helps alleviate that problem.

I also dial out a good measure of sensitivity (maybe about 1/2) as that helps smooth it all out even a bit more - the lower N/L I use, the lower I set the sensitivity.

The OP really needs to dial those two adjustments to his own preferences.

I certainly know better than to question anything you say. However, those settings I gave do work on my T500RS and have worked on my G920 and G29. Those gave me perfect sync with the in-game wheel. That is why I always give those settings whenever someone is having problems with their wheel. As you say, the OP needs to dial those adjustments to his own preferences but if those settings do work then he will not need to adjust them and if they don't then he can adjust them to his own preference. If they work for me and have worked for people I have helped previously then to me it makes more sense to give settings I know work with my current wheel and have worked with my other wheels rather than suggesting to set those settings to their preferences.

I am not arguing with you, just pointing out why I always give those settings. I don't have your knowledge about these things and I am just giving advice based on what works and has worked for me.

[Fury6]

Originally posted by Willy.J.K:

[...]those settings I gave do work on my T500RS and have worked on my G920 and G29. Those gave me perfect sync with the in-game wheel.

Yes I understand but syncing with the in-game wheel is completely irrelevant from the technical perspective.

If, for reasons of OCD or other, it is important to someone personally to have the wheels match, then those people who own a Logitech wheel won't be happy with your settings anyway as those wheels have a 900 degree rotation while the TMs have a 1080 degree rotation.[edit] Actually, now that ATS supports 1080 rotation this point is somewhat moot[/edit]

I wasn't intending to 'invalidate' your settings so much as to give a more general outline for making those settings work for the individual, plus an example of how I use them on my setup.

If others find they like your settings then I'm all just as happy with that, it's about the individual getting the most out of their own setup, not about my recommendations being in any way superior - apologies if it came across that way.

[edit]

syncing with the in-game wheel is completely irrelevant from the technical perspective.

I should explain this 'technical perspective' a little further here. The in-game steering wheel is nothing more than an animation, it's not important, it doesn't affect anything whatsoever with the steering system. The only important factors are the Steering Angle (the angle through which the roadwheels turn from dead straight to full-lock on one side) and the Steering Wheel Rotation Angle (the angle that the steering wheel turns from dead straight to full-lock on one side). That gives you the Steering Ratio which is the important bit regarding steering sensitivity.

Assuming Non-Linearity at zero, with a 450 degree (450*2=900) wheel like the Logitech the Steering Ratio is **11.25** degrees (ATS trucks all have 40 degree Steering Angle). Even with your wheel Willy, the ratio is still 13.5 degrees. Yours is in the lower range of something like a sports car. The Logitech is well below anything in practical road use that I can think of.

For comparison, a typical truck will have something in the order of around *900* degrees of Steering Rotation Angle - that's 1800 degrees lock-lock steering wheel rotation compared to 900 for the Logitechs and 1080 for the TMs. That gives trucks a typical Steering Ratio of around 22 or so degrees if we assume a full 40 degree Steering Angle (it's likely going to be something at least a little less).

So, Non-Linearity is important to balance out the extremely low Steering Ratio against the need to have a full Steering Angle at the extremes to maintain the (more-or-less) correct low-speed turn radius.

[Asigion]

@Fury6, I wasn't taking offence at anything you had said, I was just explaining why I gave those settings and you have no need to apologize. I admire your knowledge and respect your opinions.

Thank you for the more indepth information about how the steering works. I must admit it is a little bit above my understanding but I do find it interesting.

[marinfrs]

Thanks for the help everyone! I did have the wheel plugged into a USB3 port, switched that, plus I just defaulted all the control settings. I had been messing around with stuff trying to figure out the game play and obviously changed something or multiple things that jacked something else up. But everything works now, and I even managed my first delivery wo tickets or rear ending anyone!

[Fury6]

Originally posted by marinfrs:

[...]But everything works now, and I even managed my first delivery wo tickets or rear ending anyone!

Welcome to ATS and keep the oily side down =D
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[edit]

Originally posted by MonkeyGamesVR:

Originally posted by Fury6:

I forgot to include in the above:

Before you do anything, delete the 'controls.sii' file to have the game regenerate it from it's internal template and then re-run the control wizard...

Where is this file into?

In the search bar -.-

[Asigion]

Glad to hear you got it working. Enjoy the game and enjoy your wheel.

[☮ Juanito ☮]

hey fellas i know its 3 years late but i ran the wizard, it put the pedals like this " clutch = acceleration" "brake = chaging shift type (1,3,5 to 2,4,6)" "acceleration = clutch". All this from settings, then went down and changed i think the clutch to the clutch, so the acceleration bar became yellow (both clutch and acc pedal had accelerate funtion for the truck). i changed the binds of the 3 pedals to properly represent the IRL functions of the pedals for the truck and boom, it worked fine, no more accelerating to maximum by itself. I DONT KNOW if this is temporary, as i was browsing stuff on google to solve the issue, stumbled across this and decided to inform y'all about this, maybe any of you or future people who see this might see it and solve it. please do tell me if you tried my fix and if it worked or no, for me it did, then i paused to type all this and ima return to the game now.