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If you're playing roguelike take this warning very seriously.
This isn't the Underwater Cave in the East or anything, it's Nur. I've never drowned in Nur. You go in, try to kill one electric eel (because alchemy quest ingredient, good to have on hand), and immediately search for the stairs down. One of only four dungeons I advise booking it and not taking a scenic route with "z" autoexplore (others being caldera, oozemaster, and the other underwater area in the East).
On the surface there aren't any bubbles, you need to hop from island to island until you get to the very south. There you will find a structure. Enter it. Inside you'll have bubbles to replenish your air meter. (they aren't infinite though.)
"Enter it" means enter the underwater dungeon. This wasnt clear to me at first.
It's very rare to find equipment with that trait though.