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번역 관련 문제 보고
I am still struggling vs AI when it comes to the mid speed corners. I destroy them on high speed corners, really slow corners I am usually faster than AI coming in and going out. But yeah, Mid speed corners, they smoke me, I might lose 2 or 3 places during one of those.
Wathcing Snu_snu's video really helped me understand how much slower downshifting and feathering the analog buttons can be so helpful instead of full on braking or full on throttle coming out.
But all in all what has help me the most is my corner entry speed and really taking care not to down shift too fast coming in. I noticed that if I downshift just right, every downshift I would get a little more bite in the front and help me turn while completely off the brakes. Not sure if I'm explaning that right, but it's what I've been working on after watching Snu-Snu's video. Really helped me.
Keep at it though, I'm on the Sky Racing team, I'm determined to win a championship with them before heading to Moto2. I'm getting ready to start my 2nd season. I love how hard it is because I feel a huge sense of accomplishment compared to Motogp'13.
I started playing Motogp 13 with auto gear and auto tuck and weaned myself off a couple races in. By switching to manual, I have far much more control over the bike, and faster lap times are inevitable. I have more control over braking distances due to downshifting, I can tuck as soon as I'm on the gas coming out of corners, I can adjust my line changing the gear I'm in when I take a corner, etc.
I use trajectory line only for the initial stages of learning a track. Although it isn't necessary, It helps establish a baseline for braking markers and what gears can typically be used for different areas of the track, and does so sooner rather than later had I not used it. After I have established a baseline though, the trajectory goes off because it becomes a distraction from experimenting and learning faster lines. In the heat of a race, trusting in your instincts will help you achieve greater results. You should learn the AI line to avoid collision areas due to significant differences in speed in certain corners, but the AI line is not necessarily the fastest line through all corners. Using the trajectory line, thus, distracts and hinders performance.
In order to take advantage of manual gear and tuck, it is important to setup controller settings to not only suit you but can also offer quick and convenient access to different bike functions. If you do not have analog control assigned to steering, throttle, and brake, you are losing out on bike performance. I recommend an xbox 360 controller.
I started playing SBK 2011 (my first bike sim) with a Logitech Dual Shock controller which did not have analog triggers. Thus, I used up on the right stick for throttle and used both of the right digital shoulder buttons for front and rear brake. I didn't realize it at the time, but it hindered my performance on the bike due to inability of feathering and trail braking. Then, when I finally gave in and bought an xbox 360 controller, I was still using right stick up for throttle but now right trigger for front brake. In the heat of battle, I started losing precious seconds because sometimes my thumb would drift sideways and I would not be fully up on the right stick which caused me to not apply full throttle. Due to this inconsistency, I basically remapped everything but steering to the setup I have now. Although it took some time to adjust, I became faster by 2-3 seconds per lap. More importantly, I became more consistent.
My setup allows for analog control of said functions with the exception of rear brake.
Some advantages:
- I can tuck immediately after braking allowing for better aerodynamics
- I can look down to check what gear I'm in and upshift at the same time
Disadvantages:
- When I want to look back, I have to be off the steering
http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=284004343
I use Kontrol Freek Classic which extends the length of the thumb sticks. The xbox 360 controller thumb sticks are significantly shorter than the Dual Shock. As a result, I lost some of the finer precision steering I was capable of when using the Dual Shock. The Kontrol Freeks remedies this. I might give Speed Freeks a try too, as sometimes in longer races my thumb gets sweaty and slips off the stick on long right handers (like the first part of Assen).
Also, the type of camera you use can hold you back. I love helmet cam and will always advocate it's use whenever I can. I learned how to use it in SBK Generations at Assen (a far more difficult sim experience and one of the most difficult tracks). The learning curve was awful because it seemed like I was crashing for days on end. But, I adapted and the racing experience became far more visceral and enjoyable. It actually had my heart pounding during a race (which is why we ride motorbikes, right?), which I never experienced in 3rd person view.
Some advantages:
- Makes me feel far more connected to the bike and I go faster as a result
- Forces me to really learn a track because mistakes feel far more amplified, and I feel I learn more from my mistakes as a result
- Less distraction compared to watching my outer body make mistakes
Disadvantages:
- One hell of a learning curve
Sorry for the thesis!
TLDR: Do this stuff, you'll go faster. ;)
Thanks everyone for your suggestions, and motivation. I will try to make some changes, learn more about the game, bikes, and trying to control those ♥♥♥♥♥♥ mid corners.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzu907CdvJA
Learning manual gear and tuck first will probably help more at this point. Helmet cam can wait until you get sick of the remote control biker.
But more important, I figured out something on next race: Sachsering. I love this circuit, I am much faster on some corners, but extremely slow in other corners. So I qualified 8th on rainy quali. But again, every mid corner, long one I'm losing huge amount compare to first 4 drivers. I was able to fight for about 4th, 5th position, but again no chance to stay close to them. Frustration was huge again. After restarting race few times, I went back to pit, and said to my engineer about oversteering problems in the middle of corners. I hit it few times, went back to race, and suddenly.... I was able to stay close to first 4 guys.... I could drive much faster on corners, than before... So I went back again to pit, and started manual setup of a bike. And it helped... So right now some hope is back for me. I also want to try to set up 1st and last gears, and see what will it change. I also am practicing on practice sessions with helmet cam. I still drive on automatic gear, but in some corners I reduce gears manually, to raduce it sometime's faster.
I don't know if anyone care about this topic, but since there were so many people trying to help me solve the problem, I feel responsible to write some news about my career and Realisitic AI problem. So after having KTM Reb DUll Ajo with the best components on it, and after starting making my own set up of the bike I started to win. Not every race, but still it was a huge progress for me. There were also moments when I was pretty frustrating. I made Pole Position with 2:06 (I think it was Brno). But on the race first 6 riders were doing 2:04 which was impossible for me. They were so slow on quali, so quick on race... Not cool. But anyway I felt big step forward. But everything changed when I decided to change team. I didn't knew if this will be good choice, to change theorethically the team with the best bike, I wanted to try Estrella Galicia... And guess what? First race - Misano - with no data packs: Pole Position and great win in race. 11s gap to 2nd Miller. The bike is maybe slower than KTM RedBull, but it drive so smoothly on mid corners. This was the biggest problem for me. So I hope this is a new beggining for me:). It also shows how great Milestone did their job with difference of the teams, and bikes. So for anyone having similar problems like I did/have: Find your bike, the one that will suit your style. And like everyone was telling me - don't give up.