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Though, I think I got it dialed in decently enough, steering linearity still feels a little funny for me though. Needs a few minor tweaks but it's completely playable for me right now with the settings I'm running. If anyone is curious:
Whee:
SEn: Off
FFB: 100
Sho: 100
dri: off
abs: 100
lin: 0
dea: 0
spr: 0
dpr: 0
in game:
FFB: 65%
Road: 85% but still playing with it
deadzones: 0(all of them)
steeting sensitivity: 15%
steering linearity: 50% and still playing with it some
accelerator and break sensitivity: 100%
>>In Logitech software:
>Global device settings
270 degrees rotation
FFB enabled
Overall effect: 50%
Spring: 0
Damper: 0
Enable centering: No
Allow game to adjust settings: Yes
>Wheel properties
Sensitivity: 50%
DZ: 0
Range: 100%
>Brake AND Accel properties:
Sensitivity: 50% (accel acts like engine braking when released)
DZ: 0
Range: 100%
Kinda wish I could remap the clutch because I like to use it in-game as the brake since the clutch does nothing, but then I lose the Logitech side of its settings and skid a lot.
>>In-Game:
>Matched steering range to 270 degrees when setting x-axis
>Brake range set to about 75% down (this brake is tough to push)
>Accelerator range set to about 95% (I don't push it ALL the way down, just in case of a deadzone that I can't control).
>The rest I FORGET BECAUSE I JUST LOST ALL OF MY CLOUD SETTINGS BECAUSE OF BETA... but my FFB was pretty high, I think around 50. Track FFB maybe 75. Brake sense around 50, accel around 70, steering around 50, linearity was zero definitely. Deadzones were mostly 1's and 0's. Brake might have been a 10%. Can't remember if I'm missing anything else here.
>Shifting: Paddles. Most efficient.
>Remapped clutch to brake to give my legs more room.
>>Other tips:
>Dampen the back side of the wheel with a handcloth folded over neatly a couple of times and wedge it nice and tight against the table.
>Shove one tennis ball each under both far ends of the 32" screen to keep it from wobbling... as far as possibile to minimize the screen's torque when it does move a bit.
>Wedge a long flathead screwdriver against the back of the screen at a 45 degree angle, anchored handle-side against thick felt-sided tape that I have laid out on my crappy foldaway patio table.
>Lodge little piece of knickknacks under exposed parts of the monitor's base to stabilize it.
>Wedge all four legs of said crappy table against heavy furniture so the thing fly across the room when I experience crazy FFB.
>Lock the wheel and shifter hard against the table with whatever I can find to stabilize them.
>Anchor the pedal assembly against something that won't move in case I really need to .stomp the gas/brake (I have a square iron grid from god knows where that I use for this to wedge the thing against my heavy kevlar CPU chassis which in turn also laterally stabilizes the table).
>Prop up my seat (in this case, couch), evenly with firm pillows to a comfortable arrangement
>Prop my back up with pillows and/or comforter until I feel firm in my seat
>Move all erh hm, beverages, off of the table in case a hard turn with FFB causes a tall bourbon to fall off the table, directly into the large top exhaust fan on my custom PC's chassis (what a night that was).
>Once in a while I even tie the freakin screen down with some rope if I feel like its moving around too much.
>Keep large screen and wheel at least 4-5" apart to minimize screen vibrating.
>Keep pushing my dog off of my pedal leg because she seems to like resting there while I race.
>Avoid excessive consumption of certain beverages.
I could switch my wheel into g25 mode but then I should have just bought a g25 instead of the wheel I have. :p
no need for better hardware to get faster... my BRD S7 sim pedales had cost 350 € bout 8? years ago and such things don't/ didn't ever give an advantage in any case , even with spring upgrades (tuning kit I have) etc beacuse those things work in general similar to normal hardware ..Most important, the potentiometers are all the same and @ low cost (1.50€/pu)... It's all just "design" or "license" you pay much money for with this advanced sim racing equipment ...
after 20? years of sim racing experience I say ..... no need for it ....buy a G25/27 and you're done for competision ... just learn to get used to the hardware you've
Cheers!
Hrmm, may have to try with steering sen at 0 and lin at 0, when I tried lin at 0 with steering up, it was kind of off. :p