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Personally I'd lean towards your theory about not entering it at the menu being the likely culprit though. You can change the gamemode from within the server, but I find it to be far buggier when done that way. If trying to enable vegan from the main menu, then your main menu should change to look like this when it works:
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2685952976
if it's red instead, that's vegetarian mode...and if you want to turn it back to default at any point that would just be the "meatmode" command (also at the title screen).