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I'm sure there will be PvE Server in the future, where you can play Online and still be save from PvP ;)
But Singleplayer is also fun, specially to learn the basics of the Game (which will not be THAT helpful in PvP... but if you want to dive into PvP you should start with guides and pvp content on YT).
I enjoy Ark SP a lot, find a nice play, build a base, tame fun Dino's and enjoy the feeling. Tweek the settings to your liking (I do EXP values real high, as I hate to mindlessly grind highlvl for saddles etc.) and you can adjust these at any point later as well. Specially when you get into Breeding or something like that you might want to adjust, else it is pain to raise a Rex-Baby for around 90h (realtime) to fully grown...
You play as a human; however you can tame a wide variety of dinosaurs & other prehistoric creatures, and ride them around. Most of the progress in the game is built around taming the right creatures for specific tasks, and then later breeding said creatures. If you do get this game, most of your time will be spent riding around on your dinosaurs.